Satin vs. Double Cut finish

ChasHOG

ChasHOG

Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
411
Can anyone explain to me why a double cut finish is more prone to oxidation than a satin finish? :confused:
 
The double cut is actually bead blasted, creating microscopic divots in the steel creating more surface area and a repository for water.

The satin finish is smoother, with less surface area and less opportunity for water to remain trapped.
 
Matteo Escobar said:
The double cut is actually bead blasted, creating microscopic divots in the steel creating more surface area and a repository for water.

The satin finish is smoother, with less surface area and less opportunity for water to remain trapped.
Click to expand...

Couldn't have explained it better.
 
Ah. Thanks.

Another question--how difficult to apply a satin finish on a double surface by hand? What's best tool for the job?
 
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I scanned these specs from a card I have
for super finishing.
RA is roughness average
a perthometer measures the
peaks and valleys on the suface

If you look at the blades with a magnifyer
you can see what I mean
 
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I tried to re-satin finish one of my blades by hand ,,,,(scratched the helloutofit),,,,, Did Not work,,,,,,,could'nt get it to come out even,,,,,, so took it down to mirror. If you have access to the proper equipment would think it would be a breeze.,,,,,,, The DoubleCut finish is duller than the satin,,,,,but trying keeping the satin finish scratchfree is next to impossible. Looks wayyyyyyyy better though , imho .
 
you kinda have to weigh the benefit of a pretty blade. If the DC blade is oxidizing in a certain environment then the satin will too. The difference is that the DC blade will have more INFI because it hasnt been "satined" off... a little scotch brite works wonders:D

i prefer naked INFI,.... but to be fair i do live in the desert...lol
 
ChasHOG said:
Ah. Thanks.

Another question--how difficult to apply a satin finish on a double surface by hand? What's best tool for the job?
Click to expand...

I am no expert but I have been trying my hand at this. I find that if you use progressively higher grade abrasive ending with 600 or 800 for a nice satin finish. The trick is, I think, going in only one direction perpendicular to the blade. Of course you could go parallel for a different look but I like Perpendicular. It's a long process. I use 3M wet /dry paper. It is well worth the work if it comes out well. Good thing is you can always send the knife to an expert to fix it if you mess up.
Good luck.
 
ChasHOG said:
Another question--how difficult to apply a satin finish on a double surface by hand? What's best tool for the job?
Click to expand...

i've started trying to do this, but i haven't done very well so far. the center of the spine seems to be a trouble spot for me. haven't even started on the main bevel yet
 
A hand satin finish is simple to do, but very time consuming on most busse blades due to the size and often rough work you need to do before even getting to the hand sanding. On some blades the surface finish is very rough, and almost requires a belt sander to prep before you can work it down with hand sanding, or a scotchbrite wheel. Others are very nicely finished from the factory under the coating, and often a quick hit with some paint stripper and quick buff with a scotchbrite wheel will give a factory like satin finish. If you do want a true custom-quality hand satin finish then the trick is to use a sanding block that's firm but has enough give to contour itself to the blade. Use straight deliberate strokes in one direction along the entire length of the grind, you aren't scuffing up some paint to retouch it, you're trying to create even and paralell scratch marks.
 
Three words words: Tuff-Glide Marine Cloth.

Like a parkerized finish on a gun, the "pores" also provide a spot for oil or Tuff-Glide or CLP to reside.
If you wipe down a DC blade just every now and then, it will give you problem-free performance for life.
 
RoNNiE said:
I tried to re-satin finish one of my blades by hand ,,,,(scratched the helloutofit),,,,, Did Not work,,,,,,,could'nt get it to come out even,,,,,, so took it down to mirror.
Click to expand...


When I was working in Tool & Die, we did our own polishing/finishing (no illegals in our shop) which means grabbing a course stone and rubbing away for hours on end till you were at the point of using emery cloth then a 90 and polishing compound.....

If you were polishing a rounded edge on a die, slipped and sent a scratch in the wrong direction, that was it. Back to rubbing her down with a course stone till you were back to the final step of polishing.

It was tedious work and I hated it. Getting the deeper scratches out was the worst!

So for sure, on heat treated metal you'd need some serious elbow grease and time spent to get real nasty scratches out of a satin finish!!!
 
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