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Satin vs. Double Cut
- Thread starter jeffrice6
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- Sep 30, 2008
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They're not the same. Satin is a semi-shiny finish, double-cut is a bead blasted matte finish.
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- Aug 26, 2010
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Definitely different... but i'm at work so i can't post pics
Like said above, satin looks shiny and is completely smooth where as double cut/bead blasted looks greyish in color.
Double cut has a ton of tiny indentations from being bead blasted which gives it a consistent look. The downside is that all of those tiny indentations = higher potential for some rusting because moisture can find itself trapped in the indentations vs a completely smooth surface.
Cost wise, I think its most expensive for manufacturers to make satin, cheapest to just coat the blade, and bead blasting sits in between. Based on cost in the market, that's what I would guess...but I'm not a knife maker.
I personally really like the look of double cut, but haven't been able to get over the potential rust hurdle. The type of steel will be the biggest question when deciding what kind of finish.
Double cut has a ton of tiny indentations from being bead blasted which gives it a consistent look. The downside is that all of those tiny indentations = higher potential for some rusting because moisture can find itself trapped in the indentations vs a completely smooth surface.
Cost wise, I think its most expensive for manufacturers to make satin, cheapest to just coat the blade, and bead blasting sits in between. Based on cost in the market, that's what I would guess...but I'm not a knife maker.
I personally really like the look of double cut, but haven't been able to get over the potential rust hurdle. The type of steel will be the biggest question when deciding what kind of finish.
shaving sharp
Gold Member
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- Dec 19, 2007
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I have several Double Cut busse knives and also a FFBM that I put a bead blast on myself. I have handled the knives and they have been in my safe in the basement for over a year with no signs of any rust. The composition of the steel is the most important factor. I know Busse Infi is a (secret steel) but in my opinion has enough cromium in it that it prevents rust very well. I have never seen anyone post a rusted knife made from infi steel. As for other steels like 1095 I would agree that a smooth finish would be less prone to rust but the up side is those little pores would also hold more lubricant like oil or tuff cloth or wax to help resist corrosion.
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- Mar 20, 2012
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Rick and Ryanmo,
Rick, you said: "...then seal the surface (peening)." I assume the second blasting is why it's "double cut?"
and Ryanmo, you said "...indentations = higher potential for some rusting..."
Could you guys reconcile these two? It sounds like the peening to "seal the surface" would smooth the indentations (or at least, make them lots smaller/less 'sharp' if you will). The word "seal" seems to imply that the process is then reducing the potential for corrosion???
So, does the peening make the surface as rust resistant as satin? Anyone ever tested any of this? You know, thrown two 300 dollar Busse's into salt water for a week or two, or some such thing?
Rick, you said: "...then seal the surface (peening)." I assume the second blasting is why it's "double cut?"
and Ryanmo, you said "...indentations = higher potential for some rusting..."
Could you guys reconcile these two? It sounds like the peening to "seal the surface" would smooth the indentations (or at least, make them lots smaller/less 'sharp' if you will). The word "seal" seems to imply that the process is then reducing the potential for corrosion???
So, does the peening make the surface as rust resistant as satin? Anyone ever tested any of this? You know, thrown two 300 dollar Busse's into salt water for a week or two, or some such thing?
Not the same. DCBB starts as satin and then receives a dual media blast to matte the finish (cutting) and then seal the surface (peening).
The HOFSHLE is satin and the Medium BARF is DCBB:
This one has both textures on the same blade:
I'm not positive, but even after the peening I believe there are still micro indentations on double cut...which provides a place for water to hide/begin corrosion vs. a completely smooth satin finish. I agree that this step would improve rust resistance/be closer to a satin type of finish...but satin would still be better for all around corrosion resistance. How much better?? Good question...
I unfortunately dont have experience with both satin and double cut in a controlled environment testing for rust, but if you take care of your knife and are pretty thorough when wiping it down, I doubt rust would be major a problem. I live 5 minutes from the Ocean and have never experienced infi rusting. I have however had to deal with SR101 rusting...
That brings us to the other hurdle with this decision...the fact that not many people have problems with INFI rusting. If its already hard to get infi to rust and you're the type that takes care of your blades after use, you should be fine with double cut. If you're looking for a saltwater dive knife...i would get a completely coated blade in INFI, or get a titanium dive knife.
Would be great to get the opinion/experience of some folks who have double cut users/beaters.
I unfortunately dont have experience with both satin and double cut in a controlled environment testing for rust, but if you take care of your knife and are pretty thorough when wiping it down, I doubt rust would be major a problem. I live 5 minutes from the Ocean and have never experienced infi rusting. I have however had to deal with SR101 rusting...
That brings us to the other hurdle with this decision...the fact that not many people have problems with INFI rusting. If its already hard to get infi to rust and you're the type that takes care of your blades after use, you should be fine with double cut. If you're looking for a saltwater dive knife...i would get a completely coated blade in INFI, or get a titanium dive knife.
Would be great to get the opinion/experience of some folks who have double cut users/beaters.
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DCBB is not equivalent to regular sand blasted finishes. See this early quote from Jerry:
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- Dec 23, 2006
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RenWax will leave a DC finish pretty flat if you don't buff it down. IMO, oiling it defeats the purpose and just makes it shiny. Not like satin, but still really shiny.
Gravelface
Gold Member
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- Nov 8, 2005
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- 11,306
The only time I ever got rust......it was VERY fine surface only , was on my double cut blades.
On a side note, I just spent 2 days in the gulf of Mexico with my ZT301 and it was/is supposed to be fairly stain resistant BUT the exposd edge developed quite a bit of rust.....That's from cutting up fish and rinsing in the Gulf quite a bit.
On a side note, I just spent 2 days in the gulf of Mexico with my ZT301 and it was/is supposed to be fairly stain resistant BUT the exposd edge developed quite a bit of rust.....That's from cutting up fish and rinsing in the Gulf quite a bit.