Satinizing a DC finish?

swimmerdude1127

swimmerdude1127

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Mar 26, 2007
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Anyone ever "do-it-yourself" put a satin finish on a blade that had the double-cut bead blast finish? How did it turn out?

My question is mostly regarding the hard to get areas -- areas around the handle and such where hand-sanding is cumbersome.


I'm currently working on a project to satinize my DC Boss Jack Proto. :thumbup:
 
I turned my friends rusted all to hell double cut dumpster mutt into a satin finish and convexed it.

I think it came out pretty decent. Trying to mimic Bans "frosty finish" and realizing why he gets paid for his services.


DM3.jpg



DM2.jpg


I didn't do this by hand however, I used my 1x42.
 
Still working on three separate projects for myself... one is satinizing a DC Boss Jack proto, one is stripping/satinizing a NMFBM, and the last is stripping/satinizing a Skeleton Key.

The NMFBM had a LOT of decarb on it so it's going through the paces with the 1x30 belt sander I recently got from Harbor Freight.

The problem I'm running into with the Boss Jack is mostly getting a nice satin finish around the handle areas. It's tough to get into the little nooks and crannies with a Dremel or hand-sanding.

The Skeleton Key has a lot of DEEP INFI dimples. I don't know yet if I'll sand down to remove all the dimples because it would probably take a considerable amount of stock off.



So Ban or anyone else really good at fixing up a knife, any suggestions on getting a satin finish around the nooks and crannies of the handle? I'm really opposed to removing the handles because I'm not set up to put them back on, and also don't want to send them back to Busse to have them put back on. Thanks for your help.
 
If you really want to get close to the handles, they need to be removed. Some sandpaper and a small dowel can work also. The NMFBM is a lot of work btw.
 
GregS said:
Dunk it in boiling water or bleach.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Not sure if that's a joke :D... what would that do?


Anyway I got a Dremel-type tool from Harbor Freight and that is helping TREMENDOUSLY with the finer work around the handles... but there's still a millimeter or so in some areas that I'm unable to get. The satin-finished Boss Jack proto is getting close to completion, I just need to some hand-sanding. Should be done in a few days.

You were right about the NMFBM. Even with a belt sander, it's definitely time-consuming... it's got a hefty layer of decarb combined with dimples all over. The skeleton key is tricky because I'm afraid of removing too much material too fast (it's a really tiny knife already!)

I will try to post pics as I finish each one.:thumbup:
 
I did my first Busse, a Skinny Ash, the same way you are doing the Boss Street Proto using a 1 x 30 belt sander and Dremmel and had just the same hard to get areas .... what worked for me was buying a pencil eraser which had a wedge shape and I could get the wet and dry paper rapped around it into the areas at the base of the grips ....

In hind sight if I were doing it again I would consider investing in the overhead cradle for the Dremmel and use it to drill out the shamferred part of the tube rivets and then use a tap and hammer to knock the rivet out .... don't drill it out as you will damage the holes in the handle .... then you can replace the grips with new rivets and use a large vise with stainless tube rivets and wedges to flare them back out ....

If you have'nt got the relevant flared tool you can use screw heads sawn off to flare out the tube rivets ....

There are plenty of articles on how to do this .... Ban has done one in the past and one or two others have done them too ....
 
Boss Jack is nearly finished, starting to look really good.

I had a question for some of you more experienced ones out there... when I'm sanding the blade down to a satin finish, should i be dipping it in water every so often? It definitely does not get "hot" anywhere but I have felt it get warm to the touch just after a pass on the sanding belt.
 
Although INFI can take the heat, you don't want the thin edge to get hot or change color. Of course, you want to be able to hold the knife comfortably without a glove.

Your knife is probably getting hot because the grit on your belt is wearing quickly. The quality of the belt is key to a sharp, good looking grind- all scratch marks parallel and even in depth...

I bet most are using a Scotch Brite belt or wheel after the grind...
 
I did a ghetto-satin job on my DC ASH, with various hand-held sanding pads, and it took hours but came out nice - the flexy nature of the pads made it easy(er) to get into the corners, though their use is part of why it took hours to complete too...

Eventually, though, I had it re-beadblasted by a local shop. And now, believe it or not, Garth has it and will be making it Satin again (for a final time).
 
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