Satinizing Tips Please

Balislinger

Balislinger

Joined
Nov 11, 2003
Messages
6,787
I've read most of the threads out there on satinizing, but I'm still not having much success, so maybe you guys can help out. I've been working on a Badger for about a month and a half now. I've tried hand sanding, wet-sanding, dremel sanding, belt-sanding and abrasive wheels on my drill. I've used 100 grit, emory cloth, and 220, 320, 400, 600, all the way up to 1000 wet/dry. I'm still not getting to where the INFI is smooth. Some parts--mostly the area of the blade that the belt sander can get to, have reached smooth steel. But particularly that area in the middle of the blade as it swoops down--that area that's hard to get with the BS because the BS tends to hit the flats first, that part is not that smooth yet.

What are some tips on removing all the decarb and other stuff to get down to that smooth layer on every part of the blade?

Thanks
 
Are you talking about smoothing out the infi goodness dimples and pitting on the CG blades ? That stuff does look like a load to smooth out.
 
It's not so much dimples, it's more a slightly darker color than the smooth steel, and there are striations on the blade perpendicular to the edge.
 
Thanks, Tyrkon, I think that thread is going to help me out. I have an orbital sander with a 4.5" soft backing plate, so I could get some sanding discs for it and I think that would help. So far, I've only used my orbital for car detailing, so I've never actually sanded with it. What kinds of attachments and discs do I need, to use it as a sander for the purpose of getting through the grind marks and dimples, and where do I get them?

Mind you, that will just be to get the blade smooth, so I can then give it a satin finish with the 3M wheels, which I have. I'm not going for mirror, just satin.

Also the idea of using steel wool around the slabs is interesting. I hadn't thought of that, but it may mold better than folded sandpaper. Any idea what "grit" the #00000 steel wool is? I'd like to know where to use it in my process.
 
Hey Baconslinger... FYI... you can't find the 3M wheels at the big box hardware stores in our area. Try ACE hardware. They carry them. Good luck with your project!
 
I've got the 3M wheels man, I got 'em off Ace online (I think) last week. Wondering more about sanding discs for the orbital as I've never used them.
 
I used some of these from Lowes.

082354070021.jpg


The durability sucks... buy 2, but they worked pretty well on the dimples in this Chopweiler. (pic before using the 3m wheel to smooth it out).
IMG_1710.jpg
 
That sandpaper wheel is a good idea. Wish there were better sanding attachments for the Dremel than those little brown sanding drums--they suck, and are uneven. In any case, I've been doing the best I can with my limited experience and tools. Those 3M wheels for the cordless drill helped alot, as did the sanding discs for the orbital (got that figured out). I think the perfect tool would be something like those 3M wheels, but more abrasive, and smaller. It would help doing fine work, like getting close to the handle slab, and working within grind lines.

One thing I learned about those 3M wheels tonight though, can't believe I didn't catch it sooner. Maybe this is self-explanatory, but I could see others making the same error. The sandpaper bits are embedded in the wheel material, so you don't readily see the sides of the sandpaper. For some reason, I had assumed that the wheel does the same job turning in either direction. Since the previous advice had been to make the wheel spin away from the edge at all times, I was reversing direction on the drill to make that happen. Then I realized, that the sandpaper is only one one side of those paper inserts. So the 3M wheel has to spin clockwise (if you're looking down the barrel of the drill) in order to work effectively. Man, wish they had written something on the packaging to that effect for NooBs like me!

So know that if you use those 3M wheels, open 'em up a little to see what side the abrasive is on, and keep 'em spinning in that direction. Rather than reverse direction on the drill, just flip the drill upside down and continue.

I think I've done as much as I wanna do by power tool now. Even though I still have some deep lines by the handle slabs, I'm going to finish the knife by hand now and do the best I can. Should be done this weekend.
 
Smooth with scotchbrite and go after it with elbow grease...infi cleans up really well.
 

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