Saw blade Knife Q????????????

CKE2

CKE2

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Aug 28, 2003
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Here goes...I am a 4th year machinist apprentice. I have a diploma for a two year tool and die program. I know the basics.
My question is this. I am getting a hack saw blade from one of the other machinists I work with. I assume 1 1/2 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. I would like to make a knife out ot this. Should I grind the ruff pattern out trying not to heat up the matl(this will be hard I think because of the relatively thin matl) to take the orig temper out. Then finish the grind and sharpen? Or should I grind it out then heat treat while taking it up to the non-magnetic state then how should I quench? Tempering should be done at what temp??? Please Help??? Thanks and Take Care!
 
Not knowing for sure what steel you hack saw blade is makes this a difficult question to answer. I do know a fella up here that makes some whicked skinners from hack saw blades, and I think the ones he uses are made of M-2 or M-4, something like that. Anyway, it is probably similar, and is a high speed tool steel at very high RC (he RC'ed a few, and came up with something like 64-65.) If it is a similar steel, it is probably an air quench heat treat with very specific times and temps.. No way to tell unless you can find out what steel yours are made of. I'd carefully grind your blade out, cooling in H20 after each pass. Lots of time, for sure, but you'll have a very tough and very sharp knife in the end.
Good Luck,

Clint
 
I made quite a few knives from hacksaw blades, just ground them, mostly on a wheel. They are HARD on belts, as we know! I used mostly Steratt power hacksaw blades, .088 and .100 in thickness, about R70, factory painted yellow painted blades. These are not bi-metal, by the way. I have made some kitchen knives out of some gray painted bi-metal blades, and they are still doing a good job, too. I actually had requests for hacksaw blade knives. They will rust like crazy if not taken care of, but will take a mirror polish, shining like a '57 buick bumper! You have to use diamond paste to give them a real mirror polish, because they are HARD! At our HQ we give heavy use to one of my bi-metal hacksaw blade knives, cutting up meat and everything for holiday cookouts. We have a grill cookout on those days because things are really slow on holidays. The poor officers that draw holiday duty have at least something to look forward to on a dead day. Just dry the blade after washing to prevent rust. We have used it for about 10 years, and it is holding up great. Another tip, gasket remover you buy in the pressured can is great for removing the factory paint.
 
I use them and lately I have been using them more by themselves (not in damascus) I love the way they take and hold an edge. I have done them both ways, heating them up and re-heat treating and keeping them cool while grinding. Yo be honest, I don't see any difference.

The Bi-Metal blades work fine but I try for the ones that are hardened all the way.

I've been rust browning all mine and it not only saves time for mother nature, I like the look.
 
Just grind it out. M2 holds its hardness up to a bit over dull red; that is why it is called a high speed steel.
 
Thanks folks. Found out today the pieces he has are only 4 inches long. My intent was full tang. I will still take the pieces and try the methods mentioned then what ever works best use that method on a larger piece. Thanks alot and Take Care!!!
 
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