scale problem

H

Hesparus

Joined
Oct 31, 2004
Messages
1,442
As I mentioned last week, I just purchased a set of redwood burl scales from K&G. They arrived today and they are quite beautiful. Unfortunately, while they are matched, they are not consistent in their dimentions. One is 13/32" thick all the way through and very smooth on both sides but the other is 3/8" thick on one end and 11/32" thick on the other end, with one side rough and uneaven.
This has never been a problem with other woods I've bought (although my experience has been limited). Is this something I should just deal with? If so, how do I fix these problems? The numbers seem small but the difference is quite noticable, and I am worried about the holes not lining up on the two scales.

- Chris
 
Just make sure each one has a perfectly flat surface to see the tang of the knife when you're drilling, then use the minimum thickness of the thinnest piece as your maximum thickness for both of them, and start sanding!

_z

EDIT: When drilling, don't use the wood as your base, but the metal. That way the drilling will be square to the tang even if the wood is narly on the outside. You probably know that already, but just in case :).
 
z537z said:
Just make sure each one has a perfectly flat surface to see the tang of the knife when you're drilling, then use the minimum thickness of the thinnest piece as your maximum thickness for both of them, and start sanding!

_z

EDIT: When drilling, don't use the wood as your base, but the metal. That way the drilling will be square to the tang even if the wood is narly on the outside. You probably know that already, but just in case :).
Click to expand...
_z :confused:
How do you use the pinholes in the tang as your guides if the knarly side is up and your blade is on the bottom? Or am I misunderstanding?

I went out and bought a micrometer to get all areas of each scale as equal as possible when this occurs. Otherwise a thicknessplaner or something along those lines would be my guess but a lot more expensive. With the method I've been using the thickness of each piece does not matter as long as everything is nice and square. Once the glue is set up nice you can shape each scale to what ever shape and thickness you desire. I have only taken a weekend stock removal class so some things such as this I have had to work out for myself with the tools I currently have. There is always an easier way but tools aren't cheap. Hope this helps.

_z
If you know an easier way please help us out because squaring up scales can be frustrating.

Mike Coughlin
 
get some 60 grit sandpaper. Use a flat surface to lay the paper on and sand one side flat that will be next to the tang. Drill the tang holes (1/8" holes) where you want them.
Then use some vise grips to hold the wood on the tang where you want. Drill through the tang holes through the wood. Do this on both sides. While you still have the scales clamped in place trace the tang shape.

Now you can enlarge the holes whatever you want them to be.
This is how I get my scales drilled to match my tang holes. USe 1/8" steel rod to hold the scales together and shape the front of each.
Glue and pin them to the tang and your ready to shape everything up.
Be sure to have epoxy thinner for the excess epoxy that squishes on the ricasso area. Also use a tooth pic to clean up the epoxy where the front of the scales and ricasso meet.

Hope I helped...........
 
Much easier than that, I think, assuming your blade is fairly straight all the way through, is to go off the blade rather than the wood. Even if it's not fully straight, the tang and scale holes will all be off by the same angle so it'll line up great.

What I mean is, drill the tang, then clamp one scale onto it. With the scale (clamped) on the bottom so you can use the tang holes as a guide, put a piece of square metal stock or wood a little higher than the scale's thickness on your table, and let the blade rest on that. Then lightly wedge a small piece of something under the scale to make sure the blade won't flex, and drill away, the wood will be up in the air so you aren't depending on an inaccurate surface.

44183648.jpg



Hope this helps. I didn't show the scale clamped to the tang, but you get the idea I hope. A little tricky, but saves time in the long run.

_z
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top