Scales popping loose

G

G.Scaffe

Joined
Dec 9, 2000
Messages
174
I'm having trouble with the handles coming loose around
the edge. This does not happen all the time. The only thing
that I could think of to be causing this would be that the tang
is too smooth. The epoxy that I am using is Devcon 2 ton. I try to keep the handle cool by dunking it in water.
Thanks,
Gene
 
There are several things that could be wrong. As you already mentioned, your tang may be too smooth. Rub a bunch of scratches on the tang where the epoxy goes with coarse paper and that might help. Also, you may have contamination on your tang. Degrease it with a little bit of acetone, or I think rubbing alcohol works too. Your scale could also be too oily (for certain natural materials). Wipe the glueing surface a couple times with acetone to wipe some of the natural oil off the surface. Also, if your tang has very few holes in it, drill a couple extra holes. These reduce weight and will also add something for the epoxy to grab. Try keeping spring clamps on your scales when they are curing as well, and make sure you let it set fully before working it. This usually takes at least 6 hours.

Lastly, make sure your epoxy hasn't gone bad. I heard that even the Dev-Con epoxies can go bad after being open for too many months. If stored outside, the weather could be messing it up as well. Some epoxies also have a shelf life. Dev-Con epoxy should have a shelf life of about 1 year.
 
It is possible that you are clamping the scales with too much force, causing all the epoxy to squeeze out.
I run my tang across a 40-60 grit belt before glueing up, I also put dimples on the inside of the scales with a small drill bit, to help the epoxy hold.
Do like Chang said, wipe everything down with Acetone before glueing, tang, inside the scales, etc.
One final note, I grind a hollow down the middle of the tang, whether I am going to taper it, or not, this also helps the epoxy to hold. Good luck.
 
Almost forgot, make sure that everything is FLAT, before glueing up. A convex tang, or scales, will also cause the problems you are describing.:confused:
 
I now etch most of my tangs before epoxying. It does a great job of preparing the surface as well as getting it clean. I also am a fanatic about keeping things like waxes and oils away from the area where I use epoxy. You'd be amazed with how little of those it takes to ruin epoxy. You might also be mixing it on or in something that contaminates the epoxy. I use epoxy mixing pads from Brownells, even though they are the most expensive paper pads in the world. I know they are safe.
 
Milk Man, one thing I would like to add, is how are you pinning your handles on?

Like everyone said, it is critical for epoxy to mixed clean, aplied to clean(and rough)surfaces, and properly clamped(not to tight).

If you are just glueing a pin in, I have found that for me the scales will eventualy come loose. That's one reason I like Loveless bolts, or corby style. And on normal pin stock I sand and degrease the pinns, glue them in and befor the epoxy sets I pien them so I have a mecanical bond.

I have had so much trouble with epoxy that I don't trust any adhisive completly. Since piening the pinns and useing Loveless bolts, I have not had any kind of handle seperation, even when my mother subjects one to a week in dirty dish water, or the dishwasher.


One last thing, work real slow on grinding down excess handle material, heat is epoxies #1 enemy. Also you may be getting your handle material to hot when flating, and causeing a warp or cup. If your useing natural material it may not be dried to ambiant humidity.

Hope this helps
 
If your using bone or any natural material don't dip it in
water you want it to be dry before using so putting it in
water is just un-doing what your striving to get, Dry,, and
seal after finished.
 when I work the natural material I stop when it gets a bit
warm to hold, then let it cool down.
 Along with the ways the other guys here are doing, notching
pins below the surface to help the
epoxy will help, and if using bolsters and pommels I dove tail when
I can, if I can't, I'll cut a biscuit
 in both matting end parts, fill with the 30 min epoxy,
( don't use the 5 min stuff it will brake bond
 sooner then the 5 min opoxy.
I also will put blind pins in (notched), done from the back
side of the scails
 I hope this helps..;)
 
Hi,
I managed to do exactly the same thing. Try keeping the handle cool. Heat will delaminate the edges...Ken
 
Thanks for the help. I figured out what I was doing wrong.
I was getting the handle to hot, and the tang was smooth.
Thanks
Gene
 
Acra-glas from Brownells, Golfsmith epoxy, or the 24 hour stuff from K&G is much more heat resistant than Devcon.

Brett
 
Mike hit the nail on the head.....#1
1. Make SURE the blank is FLAT
2. Make sure everything is super clean
3. Don't clamp too tight
4. Don't over heat when grinding
Seems we all can relate to this.......
Eric
 
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