- Joined
- Jun 7, 2009
- Messages
- 2,720
I just got my Skookum Bush knife this week ( Yahoo !! Two years later !!
)
I am well versed in sharpening, except when it comes to scandi edges. I've read a lot about it from different viewpoints, especially Scandinavian methods. What I'd like to hear about is experience. I know if I strop my Scandi at a slightly higher angle, my edge will become slightly convex, but only to a small degree. Some claim this will help prevent folding/breaking of the edge. (My strops are leather with green Chromium compound). Also , that the edge can handle tougher work better, like battoning, heavy cuts, etc. When that slightly convexed edge gets dull, just a few light strops can bring it back to sharp again,but at a price. Over time , I will end up with a convexed knife, unless I periodically restore the original large scandi bevel again.
So what would your opinions be? Should I leave it as is , or "micro-strop" the edge for general bushcraft use. ( mainly trimming poles, bark, notches, etc.) Thanks , Pete.
I am well versed in sharpening, except when it comes to scandi edges. I've read a lot about it from different viewpoints, especially Scandinavian methods. What I'd like to hear about is experience. I know if I strop my Scandi at a slightly higher angle, my edge will become slightly convex, but only to a small degree. Some claim this will help prevent folding/breaking of the edge. (My strops are leather with green Chromium compound). Also , that the edge can handle tougher work better, like battoning, heavy cuts, etc. When that slightly convexed edge gets dull, just a few light strops can bring it back to sharp again,but at a price. Over time , I will end up with a convexed knife, unless I periodically restore the original large scandi bevel again.
So what would your opinions be? Should I leave it as is , or "micro-strop" the edge for general bushcraft use. ( mainly trimming poles, bark, notches, etc.) Thanks , Pete.