Scandi grind bevel angle..

M

Maineiac1

Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
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I’m looking to make a Scandi blade out of S35VN that is 0.212 thick, prolly .2 once I sand a finish on it. I’m trying to calculate the bevel height I need and am unsure where I should be at. The math I came up with leaves me with a .5- .55” tall bevel per side giving me about a 12 degree bevel per side.. does that sound right to anyone or am I way off?

And yes I know that steel thickness is less than preferred but for shits and grins I’m gonna try it.

Thanks!
 
Seems a bit thin for a final edge with that steel but I would say give it a try and if it gets chippy, add a micro bevel or convex the edge. That does seem pretty close though. For a reference point, the mora garberg is 27deg inclusive on a 3.2mm blade so you're only a degree per side off from a well known manufacturer's spec.

https://morakniv.se/en/faq/whats-the-edge-angle-of-garberg/
 
mzodsbb.jpg
 
you can just download one of the free 2d cad programs, i think they even have mobile versions for cellphones
 
"........And yes I know that steel thickness is less than preferred but for shits and grins I’m gonna try it."

That is a thick blade not a thin one. Most of the scandi blades I have made were around .125".

On a scandi, just decide the desider bevel height and grind to zero. The angle is what it is. If you want to know the exact angle, just plug the desired height into a triangle calculator along with the thickness. If a specific angle is desired, use the desired angle and the thickness.
https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
"........And yes I know that steel thickness is less than preferred but for shits and grins I’m gonna try it."

That is a thick blade not a thin one. Most of the scandi blades I have made were around .125".

On a scandi, just decide the desider bevel height and grind to zero. The angle is what it is. If you want to know the exact angle, just plug the desired height into a triangle calculator along with the thickness. If a specific angle is desired, use the desired angle and the thickness.
https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'm making a knife for a buddy and he is dead set of a fat blade... I explained multiple times the cause and effect of the thickness and that I didn't want the performance to suck so I would like to do it in 5/32, but couldn't win him over.. I've done scandi's in 1/8 O1 and was more than happy. Ill do a test piece on the fat stuff and will see.

Stacy, how thin would you go pre heat treat on S35VN? I know you've said in another thread you can take it pretty thin. I'm guessing take it to zero and lightly sand the edge back just a touch? And thanks for your input on the dry ice slurry as it worked of magnificently!
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
"........And yes I know that steel thickness is less than preferred but for shits and grins I’m gonna try it."

That is a thick blade not a thin one. Most of the scandi blades I have made were around .125".

On a scandi, just decide the desider bevel height and grind to zero. The angle is what it is. If you want to know the exact angle, just plug the desired height into a triangle calculator along with the thickness. If a specific angle is desired, use the desired angle and the thickness.
https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
Click to expand...

I think he meant thinner edge than blade, or that's how I read it. I would agree that, that is a thick scandi though.
 
I was talking about the stock thickness.

I would take the edge on S35VN to about .010" pre-HT. I have gone as thin as .005". It largely depends on how thick the blade is and the edge angle.
 
The 12 degree setting is a good choice. The .212 thickness along the spine is going to give you a heavy blade. If it was me I would take the blank to .168 or so. This will still give a better balance. Distal taper is a must in a blade this size.
Have fun, Fred
 
Fred.Rowe said:
The 12 degree setting is a good choice. The .212 thickness along the spine is going to give you a heavy blade. If it was me I would take the blank to .168 or so. This will still give a better balance. Distal taper is a must in a blade this size.
Have fun, Fred
Click to expand...


Thanks, the guy who wants this it adamant for this thickness, I tried explaining and talking them into 5/32 to no avail.
 
Maineiac1 said:
I’m looking to make a Scandi blade out of S35VN that is 0.212 thick, prolly .2 once I sand a finish on it. I’m trying to calculate the bevel height I need and am unsure where I should be at. The math I came up with leaves me with a .5- .55” tall bevel per side giving me about a 12 degree bevel per side.. does that sound right to anyone or am I way off?

And yes I know that steel thickness is less than preferred but for shits and grins I’m gonna try it.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
The best thing you can do with a scandi is to add a small secondary bevel. it saves metal when sharpening and provides a tougher edge.
 
Welcome socratic25.
Fill out your profile so we know a bit about you and where you live.

This is a 6-year-old thread. No point in posting on it. Try to avoid necroposting. When new all posts show up randomly. You need to look at the dates of the last several posts and the first post to see if you are looking at old threads. After a while you page will get sorted by the threads you have looked at and posted on.
 
I would do the math using the .212 thickness I doubt you’re going to remove .012 off it without a surface grinder.

I use a taper calculator for things like tapered tangs and sometimes bevels. Taper Calculator

You major diameter is your stock thickness and minor I set to .001 for bevels or my desired thickness for tapered tangs.

As for your bevel angle 12-14 DPS seem to be pretty popular.
 
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