Scandi Grind - Primary or Secondary

N

neeman

Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
6,249
Guys,

Just got a three Norwegian knives (Scandi Grind)
Two small inexpensive Brusletto carving knives and a Helle Harmoni
I have re-established the primary grinds on the two Brusletto as they were pretty rough factory grinds.
The Helle comes with a small secondary grind and is too nice to play with, until I ask this question!


I have heard of leaving the primary grind or having a secondary grind
What and why is the advantage of primary over secondary


Thanks,
 
Last edited:
X-posted in Maintenance

Guys,

Just got a three Norwegian knives (Scandi Grind)
Two small inexpensive Brusletto carving knives and a Helle Harmoni
I have re-established the primary grinds on the two Brusletto as they were pretty rough factory grinds.
The Helle comes with a small secondary grind and is too nice to play with, until I ask this question!


I have heard of leaving the primary grind or having a secondary grind
What and why is the advantage of primary over secondary

Thanks
 
All things being equal (and they rarely are),

...the true Scandi would be more acute and better at fine slicing,

...the secondary bevel adds strenght to the edge at the cost slicing effecientcy.





Big Mike
 
I really don't see the difference at woodwork of a true scandi verses secondary bevel. Even with the 2nd, I still use that big bevel as the main guide and that is what the scandi is useful for. As Big Mike says, if you sharpen the final edge to a more acute angle it will cut better and also roll easier. That becomes the biggest crutch of the festidious scadi user. They cut very nicely until you hit a knot and then you loose that edge.
 
FYI...there is no need to post the same thread in TWO totally different forums. Post once and in the correct forum. Non-W&SS topics posted in W&SS will be moved to a more appropriate forum for discussion.
 
I put a thin convex edge on my scandi knives, mainly because I only sharpen with a belt grinder at home so everything i have is convex. I dont really notice a performance difference between the two edges, just ease of sharpening for myself.
 
It defeats the purpose IMHO when you alter the geometry of a scandi-grind. I guess I am a true believer?:p

I had a wood jewel knife that had a secondary bevel and it certainly did work well, but not as well as my other true-zero scandi knives. I was judging them based on their ability to shear wood when carving. A true scandi can really shear off the layers with ease.

Plus, I find them easier to sharpen and maintain when they have their original primary bevel and no secondary edge grind.

I have never put a serious convex edge on one. I can say that I was really impressed with my first true convex knife -A bark river.
 
one drawback to a scandi (with no secondary bevel) is chipping the edge. in order to remove the chip you have to sand down both sides which can be quite time consuming. if i had one, it would be convexed too.
 
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