Scandi grind question

B

Blade_Maniac44

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Jun 11, 2021
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I'm very new to knife making and have a question about refining the edge on my first blade. The picture in the link is a blade I cut out from an old circular saw blade. I made a bevel jig and grinded this rough scandi grind. It's pretty sharp as of now. I know it's fairly sharp because I've already cut myself on it. Should I leave it as is or send it to the wet stone to further refine the edge? I've never used a wet stone. I'm concerned that if I go to the wet stone that the edge will turn into a convex grind or just a trash edge in general. What do you all think?




https://imgur.com/a/OKkfVci
 
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Always use sand paper or wet stones for your edge. The "it has cut me so it must be sharp" isn't really true. I can say this because I've cut myself with a cheese grader and those a far from sharp...
 
Wouldn't it be already hardened if it was from a old saw blade. Assuming of course that OP didn't overheat the blade while cutting
 
It's good to sand or grind the bevel a bit before heat treatment so there are less stress points on the blade. Keep in mind that you shouldn't have the edge be too thin before hardening. If you are able to cut yourself with it, You've made it too thin. I usually grind my blades to around 0.8-0.7 mm before heat treatment
 
Keijo Knives said:
It's good to sand or grind the bevel a bit before heat treatment so there are less stress points on the blade. Keep in mind that you shouldn't have the edge be too thin before hardening. If you are able to cut yourself with it, You've made it too thin. I usually grind my blades to around 0.8-0.7 mm before heat treatment
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Should I remove a bit of the thin edge with a file, then heat treat it, then final grind?
 
after you harden it you can use diamond plate , stone or sandpaper on something flat and fix one of these things on your jig , so you don't convex the edge .
 
As far as convexing a Scandi grind goes, most people probably consider that a good thing! I'd convex all my Scandi grinds if I had the time!

A convex edge is the most durable geometry for a blade. Here's a video from Wako on it (He's a deer hunter in Japan):

Also, how do you plan to sharpen it in the future? If you are worried about convexing it from putting it on a stone, what system do you plan to use to sharpen? Honestly, one really nice thing about a Scandi grind is how easy it is to sharpen at the correct angle on a stone!
 
Wako has just blown my mind! It makes perfect sense. Finding that sweet spot radius for the convex grind of one's knife would be the tricky part, I would assume. Especially for myself, as new as I am to knife making.

I'm almost finished with this knife. The bevel had lots of file marks. I used 150 grit paper with a back and forth motion till the file marks were gone. I did it that way because I felt like the sweeping and pulling technique wasn't working to remove the file marks. It seemed to work well. Only one side is void of file marks at this time. Too many projects in the works to dedicate time to only one of them. Is this method I used to remove those file marks common practice? I figured that if I could just get rid of those marks that I could then hone the edge on a wet stone. Probably get a sweet ass convex in the process!!

Once I get the desired edge I'll hit the handle with some linseed oil and then make a sheath.

https://imgur.com/a/shMnME4
 
get some good quality 80 grit paper, and/or some finer files for cleaning up the surface.

that looks like a good first knife!
 
Mobius1, once I get the file marks gone I'll use finer sandpaper till I think it's ready for the wet stone. That's my plan at this point.
 
B Blade_Maniac44 there's no reason not to go back and forth while sanding. The only time you really want to make single, straight pulls is on your last grit. And really only on your final finishing pass on that last grit.
 
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