Scandi Grind Specifics

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Brian.Evans

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Two Questions for all the scandi experts:

1. Is the grind supposed to get narrower as it gets closer to the tip? Meaning edge to the top of the grind. I've seen it both ways and now I'm confused. I would really like to do a scandi on one of my next knives, but I want it to be "right" when I do it.

2. How wide is the bevel supposed to be? Is it a set % of the total width, or is it a set number, like 1/4" or so?

Thanks in advance for helping a newbie.
 
I say pick your desire edge geometry and set it at that. A thicker blade will have taller bevels and any distal taper will narrow your bevel at the tip.


-Xander
 
I'm not an expert, so maybe I shouldn't answer this (but I will anyway). A scandi grind is just a grind that has no secondary bevel. It does not refer to a particular angle or grind width. Around 25º is a common angle for a scandi grind — this will create a different bevel width for different steel thicknesses. Changing the angle of the grind for different parts of the knife (if I read you correctly) is not integral to what a scandi grind is, nor does it preclude being called a scandi grind. But if you have a good reason for doing it then by all means do it.
Hope this helps.

- Chris
 
If your jig is one that is stationary, and you move the blade along it into the belt, then you can rotate the blade as you draw it across the grit and the width of the bevel stays constant. My first jig was like this. If you clamp the blade to the jig then you can't rotate it and get a narrower bevel at the tip. I do it this way nowadays. The grind is more consistant, and the tip is stronger. Its a plus plus IMO. The first problem with the first jig was repeating the grind on a finished knife. Often the handle got into the way. If a customer sent it back because he had completely messed up the bevels while hand sharpening, it was very easy to ruin the knife during re-grind. The second problem was scratches in the flat as you moved the blade along the jig. These were very difficult to fix without removing the handle.

Both jigs work, and both blades cut like hell. A little extra strength at the tip on a Scandi isn't a bad thing either IMO.
 
Thanks everyone for the, uh, tips! (pun definitely intended. :) ).

Andy, my jig is such that I clamp the blade in it and run it next to the belt. I got on your website and got some inspiration on how to go about my next few knives. I placed an order with Aldo yesterday for O1 and a small piece of A2, so you might be the guy to ask about those steels seeing as how you work in them all the time.
 
I'm no metalurgist. I follow data sheets, and check a few knifemaker websites for data. If you are going to use either of those steels, you need a furnace that can hold them at temp accurately for 20 minutes or so before the quench.
 
Nah, I send them out. Texas Knife for A2 and Mike Blue does my O1. I not far enough along in my knife making to want/need/put to good use an oven. I was meaning talking to you about handle/scale shapes and grinding advice. Like, grinding convex. I don't know how to do it.
 
The convex grind can be really good, or really bad both in appearance and ability to cut. Are you nearby. I can show you better than tell you.

What is your grinder situation like?
 
Roughly 600 miles away in central IL. It would be a bit of a drive, lol.

I'm running a craftsman 2x42 with a ceramic lined platen and manual tracking. Norton Blaze 60 grit and 120, 400, 600 Gator belts.
 
Well, you're using the right belts, and your grinder is a good minimum. Get farmiliar with the half round file and make sure your handles are not blocky. Think of an egg. Bigger at the spine and narrower, but ***not too thin at the front.

The handle is the key. Scandi'ing a blade? My 9 year old can do that! Carving a good handle takes thought and patience, and takes a blank from a blade to a tool.
 
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