Scandi Grind

[Ghost93]

I have do some research but cant quite find what im looking for. Is the scandi grind some what similar to a convex edge where there is no secondary bevel. Does it just grid down to from an edge like a convex edge? Any where to see a comparision picture. The reason is im looking to by a bushcraft knife from roger linger and saw me made scandi grind blades. Also how easy is it to sharpen in the field (generally, not type of steel). Can anyone help im confused.

 

[Way-O]

The so called scandi or zero grind has no secondary bevel, but it is flat instead of convex. Actually it's saber ground, since the bevel doesn't extend the whole width of the blade. Often a reeeally tiny secondary bevel can be observed, likely from removing a burr.

Sharpening is easy if somewhat laborious. You use the single bevel as a guide, laying it flat on a stone and then just sharpen as you would any knife. If your zero ground blade has gotten really dull, use aggressive/rougher grit abrasives first. For touch ups, using a steeper angle and a couple strokes on a fine stone, and so creating the tiniest secondary bevel (microbevel, as some say), doesn't really take away from the geometry

[edit] a cross-section:

angles marked with red

 

[Cliff Stamp]

You use the single bevel as a guide, laying it flat on a stone and then just sharpen as you would any knife.

This works ok for most wood work (clean woods) as blunting is minimal and honing time isn't an issue as you don't have to remove much steel, but even it is common to use secondary edges and under cut the primary for ease of sharpening and versatility in cutting ability / durability.

Lee discusses this in his book on sharpening and even recommends relief grinds on chisels, dropping the primary down only slightly by a few degrees makes a major difference in ease of sharpening. If you are getting a custom, get an actual primary grind in suitable steel stock.

-Cliff

 

[Way-O]

Cliff, I see no contrast to what I said above.

 

[Ghost93]

Okay, for what i understand, you lay the primary graind competetly flat on a stone and sharpen that way. Thanks for the pic, that really clearifys think. next question, can the blade have some sort of coating, epoxy or hot blued, is it possiable.

 

[Way-O]

of course it could have, but it would shear off during sharpening from the beveled part of the blade.

Many Nordic knives are somewhat or highly polished to help with corrosion resistance. Marttiini offers puukko knives with PTFE ("Martef") coated blades, but these have a secondary bevel and are not really a true zero grind, though the geometry is quite similar overall - low saber grind, relatively thin blade stock.