Scandi or convex for machetes?

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gomipile

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Apr 17, 2010
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Hi, I'm considering making some ludicrously proportioned machetes, and I was wondering which grind people prefer for the edge, scandi or convex? Depending on your sharpening equipment, either can be easier to maintain.

So, what do you prefer, and why?
 
Convex for sure, unless by ludicrously proportioned you mean ludicrously short! I can't even imagine trying to maintain a scandi on a 18-24" blade unless it was just a short section at the base like one of Pict's mods.
 
I agree, I convex all 09f mine and sometimes add a short scandi section right above the handle
 
for me convex because is very strong. perhaps scandi embed in the wood and you work whit most effort
 
The big advantage for a convexed edge on a machete is the extra support it gives to the edge. Machetes have a softer spring temper to them to make them impact resistant and easy to field sharpen. Accordingly their edges are more prone toward rolling when they hit hard targets (better that than chipping, though!) and the edge support granted by the convex works (along with proper chopping technique) to prevent it from happening.
 
Totally depends on my equipment. If I only have files and stones, its a scandi with a microbevel. If I have my belt sander, convex, though not for any specific reason; its just what I get when I use a belt sander. My convex edges are pretty thin, between 10 and 15 degrees per side. I usually use my machetes for light brush clearing, certainly nothing over 2" diameter. I just don't have to deal with that where I live. My main targets are light, whippy, thorn bushes.
 
Convex works better because the blade does not stick in the plant matter like a v grind does. Also, the edge support as other have said. Convex is easy to maintain in the field with stones, just vary the angle as you work different parts of the curve.

I convexed my Ontario machete that was already extremely sharp, and the difference in cutting power was amazing. It sails through 4" diameter stalks on the giant bird of paradise in one blow. Removing the sudden shoulder where the bevel met the flat of the blade was a large part of the improvement. Material tends to hang up on those shoulders.
 
Doesn't really matter, IMO. If sharpened by hand, they all end up somewhat convex in the end. Theoretically, I think convex might be less prone to sticking. But most machetes are less than 1/8" thick, and the difference is mess pronounces as the blade thins. Furthermore, it's difficult to compare grinds without specifying any dimensions.

The most significant feature of either a Scandi or convex bevel is the zero edge. As long as significant secondary bevels are avoided, I'd say it's all good.
 
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