Scandivex versus full convex.....
(note, while I've been making what is now known as scandivex edges back into 2007, the term- IIRC- was first proposed in a different form (Scandi-Vex) on bladeforums by Koster.)
1: for chopping, some form of convex is The Way To Go. If you have any doubts, go chop wood with axes and see (if you can find one) why a flat or hllowgrind wouldn't work out.
2: The main difference between a scandivex and a full convex is going to be in two areas.
One is structurally determined. A thick and heavy, 1/8 inch machete (that
is thick and heavy!) will take a woinderful scandivex edge, but can't be run effectively as a full convex grind. You could get an inch, maybe an inch and a half up on the blade in terms of height of the grind before you got so acute and thin an edge that it wouldn't work. and even at an inch, it's going to start being roll-o-matic. 3/16 and 1/4 inch tends to be a different world. Going 1.5 inches up on a 3/16 blade, with a little reverse towards the spine, gives you what amounts to the type of grind angles you find one of the finer small double bit axes. (and yes, you can get a shaving edge on it.)
No real difference in the strength of the front of the edge on the two designs- not anything you'll notice.
Second, there's often an ability to tune a scandivex more than a full convex, for finer -
non chopping- type blades. less "vex" and more "scandi" in effect.
A note- I tend to find that the mousepad method doesn't work as well on a scandivex, which is best off with a hardwood backed strop. You (drag!) sharpen just like a scandi in that the whole ground is on the leather- but the give of the hard leather (much less than a mousepad) keeps your scandivex going.