Scandi vs Convex

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dogbone11

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Dec 10, 2015
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It's obvious that scandi's are hugely popular as they always get sharked up in a hurry around here. At the risk of sounding completely ignorant, I would like to know why so many prefer the scandi over the regular convex grind. I know the advantages of a scandi in woodworking, but other than that, why the preference? I actually own one scandi Fiddleback and one scandi Bark River but I'd like to hear some opinions.
 
Well we boys love our toys AND being boys we have to have an explanation why. But sometimes, if we're really, really, honest these are our version of the jewelry, or shoes, our better halves enjoy.... How else to best enjoy the look of spalted steel? After all they all cut.
 
If this was anywhere but the Fiddleback forum I'd have to post my popcorn gif cuz it would devolve into a religious war. But everyone here is respectful and plays nice so it should be some good discussion.

Tom makes some good points. Scandi definitely shows off the spalting. And they all cut.

As you mention in your OP, scandi excel in woodworking. Some folks will say they're too fragile, but I've found you can fix that with a micro-bevel put on with a few passes on a strop. They don't make as good as slicers, and aren't the best kitchen blades. They don't slice apples, they split 'em. :)
 
Apart from what has already been rightly pointed out there is a bit of a rarity factor for the collectors.
 
Scandis might not slice like a convex, but there edge is so sharp. I like to use my knives primarily for bushcrafting and I am lazy. I like to do the least amount of work possible when using a knife. To me a good Scandi cuts into wood in bushcrafting like a hot laser. The problem for me is then I try non Scandi knives and I am disappointed that they don't bite into the wood as a good as a Scandi does..... Unless you get a zero bevel convex grind.... Now that is something special.

My recommendation is to always have a Scandi knife with you for most bushcrafting and a conxex for everything else. And maybe an axe and........
 
Scandi guys are scandi guys. There is a cult following for this grind. The truth is that they are great at whittling wood, and then not so great at everything else.
 
I use my Scandi for everything. I've never had an issue doing any camp chores. I can make feather sticks and cut steaks and potatoes just fine. They are easy to keep sharp. You can just strop use a stone. Or if you prefer you can run it a couple times on a Sharpmaker. You may get an ever so slightly micro bevel but it is still a Scandi. I can baton all day also without an issue. But the biggest factor is that a Scandi grind just looks better than other grinds. [emoji106]
 
I'll jump on with some of the other guys. My main use outdoors is wood working. So that's a big sell for me. I also love the ease of sharpening at home or in the field. Finally, I can get them real sharp and dont have any problems for camp cook use, etc, so they seem to be a natural choice for me. I guess I just like 'em. :)
 
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Good topic and surprised this has not popped up before or maybe I just missed it, which is just as likely. With regards to Scandi vs Convex or Convex/Micro Bevel with Fiddlebacks it really is a preference and the skill level of the end user that makes the most difference. As some have pointed out, a scandi, especially one with a thin blade will bite nicely into wood and can excel in these types of tasks. However, if you are used to using exclusively convex ground blades you may not think so. On the flip side, if you are batoning wood or performing tasks that may roll the edge the convex is the way to go. Again, skill level of the user and familiarity with the blade are key. Another factor is what other tool are you paring the knife with, if any. If I have a hatchet or saw with me a scandi may be a good option. If there is only one tool to be had, it is a convex. As far as sharpening goes, unless you are using a flat hard surface or device to hold an angle to exclusively sharpen your scandi knife with it will start to convex. Strops give and there is still a tendency to rock a blade when free hand sharpening. The convex edge in my opinion gives you more options for sharpening with less stock removal. I say this because I would only sharpen my one scandi knife (that I no longer have) on the water stones, while I would regularly touch up my other knives on a strop. As far as Fiddlebacks go, the aesthetic of a nicely spalted scandi coupled with the rarity at which they are produced makes them a treasure for the collector or those who prefer that grind. For me, I'd like a scandi in the new Woodpecker, Carver or a KE Bushie, but that's about it. In the end, nothing I wrote really means a whole lot because everyone has their own preferences and excels at different tasks.
 
Given that a Scandi is essentially a convex grind of only a portion of the width of the blade as opposed to the entire width, why do you, Southern Gent, say a convex blade is less likely to roll? My own attempt at explaining the difference between the two is based on my own assumption so correct me if I'm wrong; the Scandi maintains its thickness for more of the blade's width as the grind leaves more than half of the blade unground thus making it, at least, slightly stronger.
 
My mistake, I only have a Bark River Bushcraft which has a "convex Scandi" and assumed that was how all Scandis are ground, apparently not. To cut and paste from the LT Wright site:

Scandi: This bushcrafters’ favorite has no secondary edge and is similar to a wood chisel. It offers superior control when cutting at a severe angle. Great carving wood and fine details.

Convex: Slack-ground with a secondary convex edge, this grind is great for baton work, chopping, and bushcraft. The convex grind allows for superior sharpness while maintaining its strength.
 
Not Southern Gent, but Im not sure its correct to say a Scandi is essentially a convex grind. It can be, or can be flat ground, thats another option to discuss. I would agree with you its questionable to say a convex blade is less likely to roll. Rolling and/or chipping is a function of blade steel, hardness and the geometry put on the edge - all variables. I come at this via furniture making, using planes, and chisels, which in the course of a day doing joinery, pretty much get either stropped or resharpened, (or both). An edge that fails means Ive taken the steel, to too fine an edge for that (steel) alloy and hardness to tolerate, with a given wood type. Micro bevels - true micro bevels, meaning really small little things that you can just barely see go a long way to fixing those failures and they can't be felt moving these tools over wood, as they might be if the angle of the micro bevel was the same angle for the whole blade's primary. I'm not quite sure how to apply micro bevels to convex grinds though. In my mind it seems like a true micro bevel, which admittedly I do with a jig, is like a tiny flat grind and as such eliminates the radius that convexing provides, (and the practical benefits in the field, of a convex grind). One sort of wipes out the benefits of the other. I'd love to know more about that though.

CPP said:
Given that a Scandi is essentially a convex grind of only a portion of the width of the blade as opposed to the entire width, why do you, Southern Gent, say a convex blade is less likely to roll? My own attempt at explaining the difference between the two is based on my own assumption so correct me if I'm wrong; the Scandi maintains its thickness for more of the blade's width as the grind leaves more than half of the blade unground thus making it, at least, slightly stronger.
Click to expand...
 
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It seems that there are more specific factors to consider than just convex and Scandi as each an individual knife maker may vary each grind. For example, Bark River convex ground blades do not have a micro-bevel as explained in the FAQ section of Knives Ship Free.
 
I like both grinds. I actually have a couple of blades with a "scandivex" grind that I think is awesome. Would love to see a few Fiddlebacks with this grind....hint hint!!

Martin
 
Also, don't confuse blade grind geometry with edge geometry.
 
I have to agree with Andy on this one. If you are looking for an EDC, stay away from scandi grinds. If you are using it for wood working, it doesn't get any better for whittling. But when Mr. Roy takes to the urge to make scandi grinds, everyone wants a piece because it may not last long. We are all just waiting on the 3/32 urge to come around now lol.
 
CPP said:
For example, Bark River convex ground blades do not have a micro-bevel as explained in the FAQ section of Knives Ship Free.
Click to expand...
I've purchased 4 BRK knives over the last year and _all_ of them came with a (not sharp) "microbevel". But then there is no definition of "microbevel", so BRK will probably argue that it wasn't a microbevel since it wasn't 100% flat...

Back on topic; scandi grinds are great on "thin" blades (1/8" or thinner). Such blades can be superb all round knives, in fact that's what most common in Scandinavia.
 
I don't grind Scandi's thicker than 1/8". After that, its just a rediculous steep flat grind. Pas bon.
 
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