Scandinavia grind sharpening

i_the_prodigy

i_the_prodigy

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Sep 17, 2013
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Not new to knives by any means but just picked up my first knife with a Scandi grind. What is the best way and technique to sharpen it? Can I do it with my Edge Pro or should I use water stones? I've heard sandpaper and a surface that gives but I'd like to stay away from sandpaper. Anything helps thanks guys, stay sharp! [emoji6]

Edit: Phone autocorrected the title and can't change it.
 
there's a lot of surface to sharpen if you're using the edge pro. it's easier on benchstones IMO for such a large surface.
 
I've used various methods but have always found waterstones to do best, just about any will do but I prefer the Shapton Pro stones. Besides simply working well the 5k Pro stone yields a very clean (very little burr if any) edge with great sharpness. The 1k, 2k, and 5k would be ideal for general upkeep.
 
i_the_prodigy said:
Not new to knives by any means but just picked up my first knife with a Scandi grind. What is the best way and technique to sharpen it? Can I do it with my Edge Pro or should I use water stones? I've heard sandpaper and a surface that gives but I'd like to stay away from sandpaper. Anything helps thanks guys, stay sharp! [emoji6]

Edit: Phone autocorrected the title and can't change it.
Click to expand...

For Scandi knives, a surface that DOES NOT GIVE under the paper is much more effective, and more so if the sandpaper is held tight & flush to the hard backing (use temporary adhesive). The wide bevels on the Scandi grind should ordinarily be kept as flat as possible (the bevels ARE the angle guide for sharpening, so flatter is better), so a hard surface backing the sandpaper is best for that. Harder backing will also make the sandpaper work more aggressively, almost like a stone, and it'll also ensure a crisper apex than if done on a 'giving' backing, which will round off the apex.

The biggest advantage to sandpaper is the much larger available grinding surface, which makes a big difference on big, wide bevels. And secondarily to that, the minimal expense and very wide availability of it. This isn't to say it's the 'best' method, but it certainly makes it much more accessible and effective, if used smartly.


David
 
For any real use a knife will see, a strop is just the barest beginning for maintenance. Cut something real and the edge will be dull enough for a strop to do essentially nothing. Maybe if you just do very very light trim work with a blade, a strop is enough. But if you cut something abrasive, you'll need something far more abrasive than leather (and mild compound) to make the blade sharp again.

Brian.
 
So essentially the scandi grind IS the bevel aka no secondary bevel near the edge right? Seems to me it would be a week edge and roll or something. And I think I'm going to try that David but if not I'll be picking up some finer water stones since mine are just about as fine as asphalt.
 
i_the_prodigy said:
So essentially the scandi grind IS the bevel aka no secondary bevel near the edge right? Seems to me it would be a week edge and roll or something. And I think I'm going to try that David but if not I'll be picking up some finer water stones since mine are just about as fine as asphalt.
Click to expand...

In it's truest form, the primary bevel should go all the way to the edge, with no secondary. And for the designed uses of a Scandi, the edge shouldn't roll. But there's really no harm in adding a microbevel, if you decide it's better for your uses. A microbevel would obviously make the touch-up sharpening even simpler, at least until the edge eventually retreats into the thicker steel higher into the primary. That's when a complete rebevelling would be more necessary. It'll also be a much bigger project at that point.


David
 
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