Scandinavian grind/Full flat grind?

sph3ric pyramid

sph3ric pyramid

Joined
Jul 24, 2002
Messages
861
What do you guys think of such an edge profile?

I'm in the process of designing/building a small (around 6" OA) fixed blade, and my goal is to basically make a pocket razor, something that will stand up to abuse, but will first and foremost be a cutting tool. Blade profile is a wharncliffe variant.

I'm worried about chipping because I'm planning on having the steel at around HRC 60, but I was thinking that the thickness of the blade (5/32") might prevent this, and chipping could be further prevented by putting a light secondary bevel on the edge at a higher angle.

Should I just put in a "conventional" secondary bevel?
 
If you had asked me a year ago I would have had no idea. But I was brough into a project making Scandinavian style blades and learned quite alot this year.

I never really cared for the looks of the Scandinavian grind, and assumed with the large thickness of steel left at the spine, they would not cut well. I was wrong. With a zero edge bevel, they will be absolutely FREAKY sharp.

I still prefer a full flat grind with secondary bevel for overall use, but if you know the blade will not see real heavy abuse, the Scandinavian grind is a very vialbe option.

Oh, by the way, these blades I'm making are 01 in the 58-60 Rc range.

Nick
 
Plenty Rlinger, plenty.
Helle, Mora and other scandi manufactures use this type of grind. Google those makers and if you dont find what you like look for www.brisa.fi (or "yours truly" website).
There are many blades with flat grind or flat grind with secondary bevel.
 
OH OKAY! It's not necessarily beveled to the spine. So it bevels to a usuable cutting edge(?). And to resharpen just grind the entire bevel, using a stone I suppose(?).

RL
 
rlinger

That's correct. For more detailed info on the blades and how to sharpen them, see Ragnar's pages.

I like them, but they don't hold up well to much more than light work or woodcarving. But it's not hard to get them really sharp.
 
I'm putting handles on two Helle blades for one
of our own Fourmites here
they will be done tomorrow. if anyone is
interested I'll post them with his permission.
 
I should have done this before buzy buzy...
here is one of two Handles I did for Mete
his blades, his Maple Burl, his spec's.
thanks Mete for having do the job for you.. :)
cella3.jpg


though not Scandinavian grind I thought I'd add this one
I ground from a 480 layer billet I made this week end
at the necka Hammer-in
nov17dam.jpg
 
Thanks for the work Dan. The blade is from Helle, 3 1/2" laminated stainless steel, the handle stabilized maple burl, the end pieces nickel silver .I much prefer a straight handle and the scandinavian grind (sharpen the whole bevel).
 
Dan -- that is nice! Is that the "Turmann" blade? If so, I think your client is going to like it a lot; I mounted one of these in a wood handle as my very first knife project last year & use it constantly. Photo at http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~bonamici/misc/hobbies/knifepics/turmann_maple.jpg
You can see that it is quite rough (esp. compared to yours). The handle looks big but it is comfortably scaled for my hands, esp. when I'm using it outside in the cold.
Here's another one with the 2.25 inch Helle "Ola" blade -- this is a very handy little fixed blade, easily carried in a pocket (sorry, no picture of the simple black leather sheath with a braided deerskin hanger loop): http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~bonamici/misc/hobbies/knifepics/ola_walnut.jpg

Best,

Andrew
 
Originally posted by andrewb
Dan -- that is nice! Is that the "Turmann" blade? If so, I think your client is going to like it a lot; Best,

Andrew
Click to expand...
Thanks Andrew.
You'd have to ask Mete that question
I normally make My own blades but
on occasion I'll do a job like this for guys here,
Mete got these back a few weeks ago..he took the picture
I just cropped it to size

you keep it up and you'll get the knife bug
and won't be able to stop making them :D
 
Andrewb, that should read 3 1/8", and it is the Turmann blade , # 51. BTW my very first knife which I got when I was 6 years old ,and still have is a Helle so that was part of the Helle interest..My grandmother brought them back from Norway. My brother and I each got one so I had two of the new one made, one for each of us.
 
Scandinavian knives/puukkos usually have the bevel to about halfway up the blade width, full flat grinds are rare.

On my general purpose puukkos I prefer a convex grind where the flat is about 1/3 from the spine, that gives you much better control when wood working than a flat bevel, on the down side it is more difficult to sharpen and getting it really sharp is kind of hard.

Matter of usage and taste.

TLM
 
I wouldn't assume that the knife will have a weak edge, since they are used extensively by woodworkers, which is pretty heavy use typically. However the edges aren't abused. As a woodworker, I never pry an edge, though hand planes cut with an unsupported edge, with incredible durability. Chisels typically have an edge in the 25 degree range, and are very durable edges, when used by a professional. We don't necessarily want a convex edge for control, that's a particular kind of control, cutting curves, very important in woodcarving of course.
 
Thanks for the background, Mete & Dan. I think I do have the knife bug, but it's balanced by some other bug bites (flyfishing being one prime example). ;-)

Re relative strength of the Scandinavian grinds -- they are for cutting, not prying or hacking. Used for the right applications they work extremely well & hold the edge. I use mine for leatherwork & they are great for that. I also find myself using it around the yard instead of pruners; cuts back the perennials like butter, & with less repetitive motion.

Best,

Andrew
 
Troughout scandinavia small knives have been/are general purpose tools that see most types of cutting work. It is not meant to be a whacking tool.

Lapps use a large leuku for that purpose and it is used for that only, they always carry another smaller knife with them.

Otherwise here in the northern coniferous woodland the combination hatchet/small axe and a small knife seem to have been prefered for the last thousand years or so.

TLM
 
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