- Joined
- Jun 16, 2003
- Messages
- 20,207
Form time to time, questions come up about the "Scandi grind."
I have previously posted that Scandivanian makers don't seem to think this is a big deal. Heck, Scandinavian's don't agree on what a "Scandi grind" is exactly. But let them speak for themselves:
(From Scandinavian Knife Forum at BritishBlades.Com)
Thread 1
Trond
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bergen NORWAY
Age: 43
Sharpening a Scandi knife
________________________________________
In this post i refer to a traditional blade with a single slightly hollow grind as Scandi grind. (allthough i know there is both flat and flat with a secondary bevel Scandi grind.
. . .
[Another poster in same thread]:
Is the traditional scandi hollow grind hollow because the knives are ground on large, round stone wheels?
__________________
Dave Barker
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Kristiansund NORWAY
Age: 37
yes!
SOURCE: http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3628&page=3&highlight=scandi+grind
********************************************************
Thread 2
EdgePal
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sweden, Ostersund
Age: 63
The traditional Scandinavian knife
________________________________________
. . .
About Scandi grind and secondary bevel.
The principle is that a knife only used for woodwork does not have a secondary bevel. It needs to be very sharp and it needs to hold a low sharpening angle.
If you use your knifes for other things (and wood sometimes), you shall use a secondary bevel.
The secondary bevels angle is depending on how just you are using your knife and to what.
The secondary bevel shall be between 1-3 degrees above primarily bevel. It shall be about 2-3 tens of an mm wide = when you can se this bevel with your eye, stop grinding!
When you use the knife it will be dull. When you sharpen your knife, you sharpen only the secondary bevel. This make the secondary bevel be wider and wider. When it have grow to about 6 tens of a mm the knife feels dull what ever you do with it then you must grind the primarily bevel so that the secondary bevel is back to 2-3 tens of a mm, then the edge is sharp again.
If you like to have a secondary bevel on your knife, start with 2 degrees angle above the primarily bevel. If this feels nice for you and the edge is holding about 10 times longer compare to no secondary bevel, keep it. If you need a little sharper edge, go down to 1 or 1,5 degree, or, if you like to have an edge who holds very long time, go up to 2,5 or 3 degrees secondary bevel.
You balance the angle in the secondary bevel after your way of using the knife it is a personal thing.
. . .
To sharpen Scandi grind:
Sharpen the secondary bevel before its gets dull.
If you wait until the edge is real dull, you must take away a lot of material from the blade to get it sharp again. If you sharpen it before its gets dull you only take away 1/1000 parts of a mm every time. Compare this with sharpen away up to a half mm when the edge is real dull
This is what I call maintaining sharpening. You just let the sharpener slide along the edge 3-4 times without pressure, that is all and your knife never gets dull. The maintaining sharpening is made in about 10 15 seconds.
So, also secondary bevel is a very old Scandi traditional type of edge.
Thomas
. . .
Tvidivr
A bit dusty
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Norway
Age: 41
Good post. Have some rep
Same thing here in Norway where knives are sharpened same way. Once you see the very small secondary bevel, it's time to regrind.
*******************************************************
Thread 3
EdgePal
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sweden, Ostersund
Age: 63
Knifes in Scandinavia are as tools, very old, thousands of years
[Beautiful photographs omitted]
Shot at 2007-11-28
. . .
I can se a tradition here, cant you guys?
Scandinavian edges have by some foreign people, = not Scandinavians, decided to be flat - without secondary bevel - but they did not know so much about Scandinavian knife traditions because here, nearly all knifes have flat edges with a very small secondary bevel, or are slightly convex edges (belt knifes) and just a few knifes was made hollow when the turning grinding wheel come in the beginning of the dark ages.
When the turning grinding wheel come it become popular to make hollow edges but it is harder, and more costly, to make hollow edges so they are also more expensive
95% of the people here could not afford a turning-grinding wheel, they sharpen their knifes by freehand on sandstone sharpeners who become hollow very fast - and please - try to make a flat edge with a concave sharpener then you know
So, hollow edges was for rich people and fancy knifes for many years. First when the industry could mass-produce them normal people could afford to by them, and some people try them. Today they are rare here - the flat edge with a small secondary bevel is the most popular type of edge here as always.
Thomas
****************************************************
Thread 4
Visit to knife-making shop in Poropuukko (Finland, Feb. 07) Nice pictures.
What I found interesting was that nearly all the puukkos & Leukus I saw at the shop or in the hands of our guide had small secondary bevels - always a subject of much debate.
Thread 5
Sajuma
Contributing Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLM
A fully flat sharpening is quite OK when cutting is the primary work. If wood whittling is to be done I prefer a very slightly convex sharpening, that gives you better control.
TLM
Me too but that's because were Finns...Finnish blades normally dont have fully flat bevels but a secondary "micro bevel". Have a good Midsummer or should I say: Hyvaa Juhannusta!!
Juha
****************************************************
So maybe when you post about a "Scandi grind," you might specify which "Scandi grind" you mean. Or not. Suit yourself. :thumbup:
I have previously posted that Scandivanian makers don't seem to think this is a big deal. Heck, Scandinavian's don't agree on what a "Scandi grind" is exactly. But let them speak for themselves:
(From Scandinavian Knife Forum at BritishBlades.Com)
Thread 1
Trond
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bergen NORWAY
Age: 43
Sharpening a Scandi knife
________________________________________
In this post i refer to a traditional blade with a single slightly hollow grind as Scandi grind. (allthough i know there is both flat and flat with a secondary bevel Scandi grind.
. . .
[Another poster in same thread]:
Is the traditional scandi hollow grind hollow because the knives are ground on large, round stone wheels?
__________________
Dave Barker
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Kristiansund NORWAY
Age: 37
yes!
SOURCE: http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3628&page=3&highlight=scandi+grind
********************************************************
Thread 2
EdgePal
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sweden, Ostersund
Age: 63
The traditional Scandinavian knife
________________________________________
. . .
About Scandi grind and secondary bevel.
The principle is that a knife only used for woodwork does not have a secondary bevel. It needs to be very sharp and it needs to hold a low sharpening angle.
If you use your knifes for other things (and wood sometimes), you shall use a secondary bevel.
The secondary bevels angle is depending on how just you are using your knife and to what.
The secondary bevel shall be between 1-3 degrees above primarily bevel. It shall be about 2-3 tens of an mm wide = when you can se this bevel with your eye, stop grinding!
When you use the knife it will be dull. When you sharpen your knife, you sharpen only the secondary bevel. This make the secondary bevel be wider and wider. When it have grow to about 6 tens of a mm the knife feels dull what ever you do with it then you must grind the primarily bevel so that the secondary bevel is back to 2-3 tens of a mm, then the edge is sharp again.
If you like to have a secondary bevel on your knife, start with 2 degrees angle above the primarily bevel. If this feels nice for you and the edge is holding about 10 times longer compare to no secondary bevel, keep it. If you need a little sharper edge, go down to 1 or 1,5 degree, or, if you like to have an edge who holds very long time, go up to 2,5 or 3 degrees secondary bevel.
You balance the angle in the secondary bevel after your way of using the knife it is a personal thing.
. . .
To sharpen Scandi grind:
Sharpen the secondary bevel before its gets dull.
If you wait until the edge is real dull, you must take away a lot of material from the blade to get it sharp again. If you sharpen it before its gets dull you only take away 1/1000 parts of a mm every time. Compare this with sharpen away up to a half mm when the edge is real dull
This is what I call maintaining sharpening. You just let the sharpener slide along the edge 3-4 times without pressure, that is all and your knife never gets dull. The maintaining sharpening is made in about 10 15 seconds.
So, also secondary bevel is a very old Scandi traditional type of edge.
Thomas
. . .
Tvidivr
A bit dusty
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Norway
Age: 41
Good post. Have some rep
Same thing here in Norway where knives are sharpened same way. Once you see the very small secondary bevel, it's time to regrind.
*******************************************************
Thread 3
EdgePal
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sweden, Ostersund
Age: 63
Knifes in Scandinavia are as tools, very old, thousands of years
[Beautiful photographs omitted]
Shot at 2007-11-28
. . .
I can se a tradition here, cant you guys?
Scandinavian edges have by some foreign people, = not Scandinavians, decided to be flat - without secondary bevel - but they did not know so much about Scandinavian knife traditions because here, nearly all knifes have flat edges with a very small secondary bevel, or are slightly convex edges (belt knifes) and just a few knifes was made hollow when the turning grinding wheel come in the beginning of the dark ages.
When the turning grinding wheel come it become popular to make hollow edges but it is harder, and more costly, to make hollow edges so they are also more expensive
95% of the people here could not afford a turning-grinding wheel, they sharpen their knifes by freehand on sandstone sharpeners who become hollow very fast - and please - try to make a flat edge with a concave sharpener then you know
So, hollow edges was for rich people and fancy knifes for many years. First when the industry could mass-produce them normal people could afford to by them, and some people try them. Today they are rare here - the flat edge with a small secondary bevel is the most popular type of edge here as always.
Thomas
****************************************************
Thread 4
Visit to knife-making shop in Poropuukko (Finland, Feb. 07) Nice pictures.
What I found interesting was that nearly all the puukkos & Leukus I saw at the shop or in the hands of our guide had small secondary bevels - always a subject of much debate.
Thread 5
Sajuma
Contributing Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLM
A fully flat sharpening is quite OK when cutting is the primary work. If wood whittling is to be done I prefer a very slightly convex sharpening, that gives you better control.
TLM
Me too but that's because were Finns...Finnish blades normally dont have fully flat bevels but a secondary "micro bevel". Have a good Midsummer or should I say: Hyvaa Juhannusta!!
Juha
****************************************************
So maybe when you post about a "Scandi grind," you might specify which "Scandi grind" you mean. Or not. Suit yourself. :thumbup: