after all this talk about different angles up near the tip of a sebenza, im scared to booger it up..i hear the sharpmaker is the way to go.... but is it foolproof? P.s i was wondering after a trip on the sharpmaker, does the blade look the way it did from the factory?
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scared to sharpen
- Thread starter mstag
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Professor
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...but have since switched to a brand called "Edgecrafter." It has a magnetic handle to which you apply one of four diamond-coated steel slabs. I really only find myself using the finest grit. Any fine-grit diamond sharpener that's flat (not rods in a base) should do the trick. The risk of rounding off the tip is pretty high with rods, and sometimes even Spydie stones if you're not careful.
With the Sebenza, I've found that diamonds are its best friend in terms of reprofiling the rather thick edge and "evening-out" the curvature and tip to match the bevel of the longer portion of the blade.
After you've achieved the edge you want with diamonds, Spydie stones are a great way to maintain the edge. I still use the fine-grit diamond stone to maintain mine, since I like a more aggressive, rougher edge, but that's a preference thing.
Above all, don't be apprehensive about sharpening your Seb. The best pocketknife in the world deserves to be as sharp as it can be!
Professor.
With the Sebenza, I've found that diamonds are its best friend in terms of reprofiling the rather thick edge and "evening-out" the curvature and tip to match the bevel of the longer portion of the blade.
After you've achieved the edge you want with diamonds, Spydie stones are a great way to maintain the edge. I still use the fine-grit diamond stone to maintain mine, since I like a more aggressive, rougher edge, but that's a preference thing.
Above all, don't be apprehensive about sharpening your Seb. The best pocketknife in the world deserves to be as sharp as it can be!
Professor.
I used the Sharpmaker on both my Sebenzas, and a pile of Spyderco knives too, and it is safe enough. You do need to try it first on a few kitchen knives to get used to the motion, and learn not to drag the tip on the stone, but other than that it is easy. For someone like me it is definitely better that freehanding it. Worked great on both the regular grind and the flat grind, and on both BG42 and S30V, both knives are now shaving sharp, and still a little pointy... 
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- Apr 21, 2003
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I use a 4000 grit coticule stone to sharp my knives. The free hand sharpening is not easy the few first times you try, but with a little practice (with cheap or old knives) the movements become natural. I really like this kind of sharpening method because the hand is in contact with the steel and the stone it is less industrial
try a few time, Im sure you will appreciate !!! 
With very fine stones, you can obtain a superb edge surface (and an incredible cutting ability) but the important thing is to sharp the blade before it become totally dull. The stainless steel used for the Sebenza is hard and fine stones are not very abrasive (it may be an advantage : you will not destruct the edge profile with one wrong movement like it is possible with diamond sharpener).
try a few time, Im sure you will appreciate !!! With very fine stones, you can obtain a superb edge surface (and an incredible cutting ability) but the important thing is to sharp the blade before it become totally dull. The stainless steel used for the Sebenza is hard and fine stones are not very abrasive (it may be an advantage : you will not destruct the edge profile with one wrong movement like it is possible with diamond sharpener).
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mstag said:
Understand your anxiety. You will become more confident with practice - however, I do recommend practicing with knives other than the sebbie. The Sharpmaker works just fine for touch-ups, and can be used for medium duty sharpening with the ceramic rods, and heavier duty sharpening with diamond rods.
Messing up the tip of the blade can happen with any sharpening system.
Until you get the hang of dealing with the tip, you can always send the Sebbie back home to CRK for big time sharpening. Touch ups should be relatively risk free on the Sharpmaker until then.
For me, it works best to touch up more frequently than to wait for any edge to become dull.
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I started sharpening my Sebenzas with a sharpmaker and got decent results. I have used my Edgepro on one of my small regular Sebenzas, now its sharper than it was when it was new. Another advantage to the Edgepro is you get a mirror polish own the edge and you can set the angle to let you use the sharpmaker for quick touchups. Larry
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The CRK factory edge is created on a belt sander. It is then buffed on a felt wheel charged with polishing medium. I believe the slack portion of the belt is used. This, in combination with the felt wheel, provides a convex edge, which is very durable.
The Sharpmaker is a different system than that used by CRK. The results will not be identical. However, this will not be noticeable if done correctly. When using the Sharpmaker correctly, you will not be hitting the side of the bevel. You should be just sharpening the very edge - that fine line on the edge of the blade. A magnifier will show that you have created a second bevel along the edge. Otherwise, it should look the same.
Definitely do not start with the Sebenza. Use slow strokes and only the flats, not the corners. First, touch up the blade to 1/2 inch of the tip. Then do the tip very carefully and don't let the blade slide off the flat - it will lose the point, if you do.
And don't worry about it. I boogered a blade pretty bad in my learning experience. CRK resharpens for free and it came back wicked sharp. Good luck.
The Sharpmaker is a different system than that used by CRK. The results will not be identical. However, this will not be noticeable if done correctly. When using the Sharpmaker correctly, you will not be hitting the side of the bevel. You should be just sharpening the very edge - that fine line on the edge of the blade. A magnifier will show that you have created a second bevel along the edge. Otherwise, it should look the same.
Definitely do not start with the Sebenza. Use slow strokes and only the flats, not the corners. First, touch up the blade to 1/2 inch of the tip. Then do the tip very carefully and don't let the blade slide off the flat - it will lose the point, if you do.
And don't worry about it. I boogered a blade pretty bad in my learning experience. CRK resharpens for free and it came back wicked sharp. Good luck.