School Me On Diafolds

[Trout Hound]

Okay, I want a field sharpener that I can use on my Mora carbon Scandi grind. I like the DMT Diafolds because:

1. No lubricant required.
2. Stays flat.
3. Interrupted surface doesn't require flushing as often as continuous (a la EZE Lap) in case water is scarce.

First, any suggestions for better options I haven't considered?

Second, what grits? I want to be able to restore a dull blade pretty quick, or just do touch-ups. I like a bit of tooth in the finish. I've heard that the DMT grits are more coarse than some others, so I wasn't sure.

Thanks!

 

[neeman]

E Fine/Fine
Works well
Place on a flat table and use as a regular stone for the scandi

Not as easy to use for a scandi than a regular flat DMT stone
Hard to keep the stone flat and use a hand on the blade to keep the scandi on the stone and the other hand on the stone
The duofold works best on flat grinds, where you can use the handles as a file to the edge, not the edge to the stone

Interrupted surface will give you 'ridges' on the side of the scandi, no matter as it is only cosmetic

For a field sharpener, get the E Fine Mini
that is small enough to hold the scandi on to the stone
that is what I do

 

[dalefuller]

I like toothy edges on most of my users, too. I usually stop with either the F DMT stone or the F Sharpmaker rods. I have the green/white (XF & XXF) and the blue/orange (Coarse/F) diafolds. If I were taking only one with me, it'd probably be the C/F. The F side does a pretty good job of giving you a nice toothy edge that's still really sharp. The blue side (C) will set up the bevel pretty quickly for the F side to finish it.

An alternative might be Spyderco's DoubleStuff stone It has a M side and a F side. It's a flat stone so it'll handle a bit differently than the DMTs. The DMTs are faster in my experience, the DoubleStuff is a bit more "forgiving" when you're sharpening freehand. Most of what I carry and sharpen are Emersons, so I prefer the DMTs for the handle they have. They're pretty flexible for what I have. They work well with almost all of the blade grinds that I have, even the recurves.

 

[kelbro]

You can buy the replacements for the Aligner system and not worry about the handles. You could probably get away with just buying the fine for a working knife.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

On the mention of the Dia-Fold's handles being in the way for some uses, they come off easily enough. Assuming DMT hasn't changed how they're attached, there's only a rolled pin holding them together, and it can be pushed out with a pin punch or small screwdriver blade, or a nail, etc. Can also be pushed back in to put it back together, if/when you choose to do so. I used one of my Dia-Folds without the handles for a while, and have since put the handles back on it (don't lose the pins ). No big deal, either way.

I've relied on DMT's Fine (600/25µ) hones for a lot of uses. For pocketknives and many other relatively small blades, it even does well for re-bevelling tasks. It'll also leave a great working edge on the blade. A 'Coarse' (325/45µ) DMT would be helpful for bigger/heavier blades in re-bevelling tasks, and an EF (1200/9µ) could even do these jobs on very small & thin blades, such as found on smaller traditional pocketknives. I've never felt much need for XC or coarser, in any diamond hone. A larger bench hone in Coarse or Fine can handle most anything, if one feels the need for more grinding power on very large or thick blades.

(I have two of the Coarse/Fine Dia-Folds, and one in EF/EEF, BTW)

The Spyderco Doublestuff is a refining & polishing hone, and works well in that capacity; but, it'll still be much less aggressive than most any diamond hone. For re-bevelling tasks on any blade, it'll be very slow and prone to clogging quickly. Even at EF/EEF grits, the diamond hones will remove steel much faster (you'll see it in the swarf coming off the hone, if you wipe it with a fingertip or a damp rag).


David

 

[dkb45]

I use them from coarse to extra extra fine and love them. I don't think I can use a different time sharpening system (or at least not diamonds). Even steels like M390 are easy to work with diamonds, and it should get even easier with the extra coarse one I want to get.

Short version? They rock, buy them.