Schrade blade play

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Dec 1, 2012
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Picked up a 90's model Mustang 125OT recently. Cleaned up with Simichrome very nicely.

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One thing I did notice was a significant amount of blade play in all directions on this ONIB '90s model I don't remember in my mid '70s model I had in high school, which was a long time ago.

Do Schrades typically exhibit such play? How are your Schrades in this regard? Anyone else with a 125 OT notice the same thing?

It really doesn't matter, as I'm keeping the knife more for sentimental reasons than us a user and don't think there is any way to tune it out regardless.

Thanks much.
 
It can likely be tightened without too much trouble if you wish. Search this forum for a recent thread on the pattern where it is explained.
 
This topic was interesting enough to search the catacombs of the Old Timer collection for more information.

Generally speaking, Schrade Old Timer knives are not known for blade wobble; it's quite rare in my experience, but more common on the lockback models than slipjoints, and most common on the small lockbacks.

Anyway, surveying the 125OT and similar models, here's what I found:

125OT, example #1: This had been around a long time as a marketing sample. It has a bit of up-down play between the full open position and where the tang comes to stop against the liner lock. The side-to-side blade play is bad enough that I'd be disappointed if buying it NIB. Interestingly, I could not see a pin on the front bolster.

125OT, example #2: NIB, same age as the OP's. Side-to-side the blade is very solid. It has the same bit of up-down movement as example #1. Again, I could not see exposed pins on the bolster.

25OT, example #1: An early NIB "Alaskan Hunter" example. There is no side-to-side movement at all. Up down is very solid also; this model is not locking but the action is so firm it may as well be. There is an obvious pin visible in the bolster.

25OT, example #2: A later example with the common Hoffritz etch, NIB. There is zero wobble. There is no visible pin.

A caveat: Just because I cannot see evidence of a pivot pin on some of these, doesn't mean there is not one. Even the brightest candle in the catacombs is not exactly blinding, plus I forgot my reading glasses. ;)
 
Thanks gentlemen for such insight.

Mine of course does not have a visible pin through the front bolster. And actually, I tried to tighten it up by slowly and gradually compressing it in my vise wrapped on both sides in a belt with thick leather a couple of times the day I received it.

I was afraid of smashing the nickel-plated bolster cover, so I probably did not do it hard enough, thinking better safe than sorry. It did not seem to improve it any is another reason I stopped.

Should I try it (carefully) again, or would the bolster have to come off to truly correct the issue? No way my still level could attempt that but I would try the process again, albeit very carefully.

I did notice the slight space between the liner lock and the tang in mine that is causing the up/down when pressure is placed on the spine. But I can live with it as when using it normally, it would not move any.
 
I suggest that if it bothers you, that you should contact a cutler familiar with the pattern to see if he can fix the problem for you. Some repairs I will do myself and some not. Dale Vincent is one I suggest but there are others here. Dale is Orvet on this forum. I have (had) more than a dozen in the past and never experienced this problem with any of them. By the way, the bolster should be solid nickle silver, not a hollow shell.
 
No, the folding hunter knives are not slipjoints and, as far as I am aware, use traditional through-the-bolster pivot pins. This is the thread I was referring to:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1161755-Schrade-Mustang-question?highlight=125OT

Someone please correct me if I am wrong on the construction.

In this video here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X44CxU2wtOk, he talks about and shows you how to add a full through the bolster pivot pin to fix the side to side play and within the first 4 minutes of the video he talks about the Swinden Key on the 125OT Schrades. I think depending on age some of them have it and some don't.
 
Glennbad offered to help me with a Swinden keyed Scout. His process is to cut off the bolster and pin and re-pin and bolster in the conventional fashion. The Swinden key, although clever as hell, is really a solution in search of a problem.

Shame if it does have the Swinden key. I note that a lot of the bigger lockbacks, notably the LB7 (different knife I know) and the "pocketbuster" (whose OT designation escapes me for the moment) have visible pins in almost all photos. Makes you wonder if Camillus didn't do a run or two of these.
 
That is the only dislike I have of all folding knives that are peened or pinned. They can only be tightened by hammering or pressing..
 
Glennbad offered to help me with a Swinden keyed Scout. His process is to cut off the bolster and pin and re-pin and bolster in the conventional fashion. The Swinden key, although clever as hell, is really a solution in search of a problem.

Shame if it does have the Swinden key. I note that a lot of the bigger lockbacks, notably the LB7 (different knife I know) and the "pocketbuster" (whose OT designation escapes me for the moment) have visible pins in almost all photos. Makes you wonder if Camillus didn't do a run or two of these.

My Schrade USA 51OT is pinned through! :thumbup:

SchradeUSA51OT_zps7c7fcc55.jpg
 
Not trying to pirate the OP subject but this discussion is not uncommon in the Schrade contract Buck folders, with Swinden key pins. A pocketknife was not meant for slicing thru ship hawser every day. Over pushing and twisting will bend the Swinden Buck pins. Schrade contract Bucks can be ID'd by blade construction so looking for pin in bolster is not needed. BUT, I usually say to polish bolster on your denim jean leg, then breath your warm moist breath on it a couple of times and see if a pin outline shows up. On a big lockback I bet its a thru-pin. 300Bucks

Swinden pin pivot


FYI while we are here.
Here is quick shot of Schrade made Bucks, ID them by the swedge extending half way down the top of the clip blade over the long finger groove.
 
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