Schrade USA LB-1 Spring issue

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bgp99

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Dec 28, 2009
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I just recently purchased a mini lockback knife made by Schrade in the USA. The knife has seen little use but the spring to lock the blade does not work. I have owned many slipjoint knives through the years and never had an issue with the blade "walk and talk". This I believe is because all of them have a single spring to do all the work.
As I was cleaning this knife, I noticed that the lockback on this particular knife has two springs and the one that is attached to the rear bolster is not putting enough pressure on the other spring on the backbone of the knife. It does not appear that either spring is broken but maybe the bolster spring has lost its temper?
I know that Schrade in New York is out of business, so is there anyone who could repair this knife or give me some sage advise on how I could attempt the repair. I am very mechanical but don't know where to begin. This knife is a little gem and I would like to get it back in working order. Any information would be appreciated!

Brad
 
Thank you! I just posted the same question on the Schrade board on Blade Forums. Don't hesitate to let me know if this great little folder can be fixed! After all, it is made in the good old USA.
 
Schrade USA closed it's doors a few years ago. I think the Schrade name & trademark were bought by a company called Taylor Brands LLC. Don't know how this might affect warrany issues, they might not have the repair parts in stock anymore.

But, hopefully one of the folks in the Schrade Collector's forum might know if/how you can go about getting it fixed. Good luck!
 
OK, here we go!
Repairing the little knife won't be easy, and there is a good chance the scales will be damaged. But the knife is useless as-is, anyway.
The center, backspring rivet will have to be removed. You will have to center-punch it in the center. Then use a drill bit much smaller than the rivet diameter and drill a shallow hole in both sides of the rivet. Next, use a slightly larger drill bit to enlarge the hole. Do this with sucessive sized bits until there is just a slight ring of the rivet left.
At this point, use a pin punch that is smaller in diameter than the rivet, and tap it lightly with a small hammer. A tack hammer is really too large, but will do in a pinch. Use wrist action only. Remember- light, smart taps. The knife handle should be on an anvil of sorts- slightly opened vise jaws will work. Tap one side of the rivet. If it moves, go to the other side and file the rivet flush with the scales. A 6" mill bastard file works well. Then tap the filed side in, and file the exposed head on the other side. Only move the rivet by one or two taps each time, filing the other side down. Keep doing this until the flared part of the rivet is gone. Each time you punch and file, a little more of the rivet head will be exposed.
Once you have removed the flare, the pin can be driven out and the backspring removed.
At this point you must ascertain whether the spring that powers the backspring can be removed, or if it is integral with the steel piece under the rear bolsters.
 
If the spring is removeable, slide it out with needle-nosed pliers. The spring can be re-arched simply by bending. Re-install the spring in the rear of the knife. With the knife open, place the backspring in position, and gently squeeze it into place in your vise jaws, insert a pin of the same diameter as the hole in the backspring. Taper the end of the new pin to facilitate lining everything up. Tap the overlong pin into place, remove the knife from the vise, and check for function.
If function is good, snip the pin off 1/16" above the scale on either side. File the ends flat, leaving rivet material exposed above the scales. Place the knife on your anvil, and gently tap the rivet to begin to flare it. Remember- short taps, wrist action only. Reverse the knife and begin to flare the opposite side. Do a little on each side until both heads fill the countersing in the scales. File flush, and sand smooth with wet/dry sandpaper starting with 400 grit. Use a sanding block to prevent dishing the softer scales.
 
If the spring is integral with the rear of the knife (not removeable) then you will have to remove the bail by drilling/filing it as above. Once the bail is removed, try to pivot the steel piece slightly. This will expose the other, flush (sunk) rivet in the rear bolster-which must be removed in the same manner as the backspring rivet, and reinstalled the same way.
Re-arch the integral spring and install it with slave pins, install the backspring as above, and check for function.

You will need:
a 1/16" pin punch of good quality.
A small, smooth file.
Drill and bits.
Vise.
Wet/dry automotive sandpaper. 400, 600, and higher grits.
Pin stock of the appropriate material. It can be filed to fit by chucking it in your drill.
Small (really small-1-2 OZ.) hammer.

If you accomplish this, you will be an official knife repairman!
 
Bill:

Thank you for the detailed instructions on the repair of my Schrade LB-1 knife.
It sure is an eye opener for me to see what is involved in repairing this mini locking knife! The way the knife is right now is pretty much useless so I will have to bite the bullet and attempt this repair when I can get the right tools.

It is members like you in this forum that make me enjoy it every time I log on. The wealth of knowledge here is amazing and the kindness shown to our members just astound me. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to assist me in this. I am truly grateful.

Brad
 
You're very welcome.
I hope that it will help you, and others.
It also let's people have some idea of why knife repair is so expensive.
 
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