Scotch Brite on Titanium Help Needed

[mattz357]

I've got a Bradley Alias II that is showing some honest wear on the handles and I'd like to try the scotchbrite treatment. I've used scotchbrite on stainless lots of times, but I'm a little nervous to dive into the handles on this titanium knife without asking around first. I have white, green, maroon and dark grey scotchbrite. What should I start with, what pattern (back and forth, circular, etc) should I brush, what do I need to know? Thanks in advance for any info!

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Back and forth. Avoid circles as they'll be really noticeable. Not sure about what grit the white is, but the gray will be more aggressive than I think you'll need.

 

[Josh K]

Back and forth. Avoid circles as they'll be really noticeable. Not sure about what grit the white is, but the gray will be more aggressive than I think you'll need.

I've heard the opposite advice from people who polished their Sebenza's. Circles provide the most consistent results while back and forth produces streaks. This has been my findings as well.

 

[cziv]

I've got a Bradley Alias II that is showing some honest wear on the handles and I'd like to try the scotchbrite treatment. I've used scotchbrite on stainless lots of times, but I'm a little nervous to dive into the handles on this titanium knife without asking around first. I have white, green, and dark grey scotchbrite. What should I start with, what pattern (back and forth, circular, etc) should I brush, what do I need to know? Thanks in advance for any info!

scotchbrite gray is most aggressive, maroon is their 2nd from least aggressive and white is their least aggressive - very fine. I don't know where green fits in. Kind of an all-purpose middle of the roader?

I bought a box of every grit they have and there's a couple 3 color/grits that you don't have. The above is accurate, try Gizzoogle it's a great tool for info, it may help you place the green in the lineup I gave you.

The way you rub is the way your final product will look like. But you know that, you've already done it...oops!

 

[FlaMtnBkr]

I think most custom makers apply a scotch bright finish with a belt sander so I would apply it in one direction. I don't know the 'grits' of scotch bright but I would start with the finest and see if it removes the scratches and quickly work up until you find one that takes away the scratches you want to remove. If you don't like the finish it produces then work your way to the finer grit taking your time to remove the scratches the previous grit made until you get a finish you like.

I know hand rubbed blades many times are done by holding a piece of wood that is the backing for the scotch brite in this case. The wood is placed on the metal as far from you ad possible then pulled toward you picked up and put far away and repeated. This helps to make all the scratch lines run in one uniform direction.

 

[atony]

If your familiar with the grits you have, start with the lightest and work your way up until you have reached the finish you desire. If you screw it up it is not a big deal, just have it rebead blasted then it is good as new.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I've heard the opposite advice from people who polished their Sebenza's. Circles provide the most consistent results while back and forth produces streaks. This has been my findings as well.

I worked for a while as a polisher at a yacht company. We always went back and forth, then went perpendicular to that when we switched grits. Made it easy to make sure you had removed all of the scratches from the previous grit.

scotchbrite gray is most aggressive, maroon is their 2nd from least aggressive and white is their least aggressive - very fine. I don't know where green fits in. Kind of an all-purpose middle of the roader?

I bought a box of every grit they have and there's a couple 3 color/grits that you don't have. The above is accurate, try Gizzoogle it's a great tool for info, it may help you place the green in the lineup I gave you.

The way you rub is the way your final product will look like. But you know that, you've already done it...oops!

If white is the least aggressive then green fits between it and maroon.

 

[bearcut]

Shoot, I did the scotch-brite thing on my Umnumzaan a couple years ago. Everybody warned me that I was making a big mistake. It turned out great. I have seen several others like it since then. It made it look like a much more expensive knife.
I did my Bradley at the same time.
I took a gray pad to it first, under running water. Then I took a white pad to it, under running water.
I think I did mine back and forth, but really, I don’t think it makes much difference. Once you use the white, it’s going to smooth it out anyway. It will look a lot better afterwards than the scratches you have in the beadblast. The grip won’t be noticeably diminished. The overall appearance will be an improvement. You can always freshen it up without sending it in.
I personally think CRK initially beadblasted their Ti just to hide the tooling marks. The look became fashionable so everybody decided to do it. I think it’s just a cheap way to “finish” a knife.
Don’t sweat the details and don't overthink it. It's really a no-brainer. It will look great no matter how you do it.

 

[gull wing]

I was unsure about doing my new Insingo, but I love it, looks like pewter.
Green Scotchbrite, circular motion.

 

[mattz357]

Those knives look great, and I hope my Bradley turnes out that nice. Thanks for all the advice and I'll try this out soon.