Scotchbrite belts, need some help.

230grains

230grains

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
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Not a knife maker here, but had some questions regarding scotchbrite belts. I've been stripping a lot of my knives and grinding on them, getting the dimples out of INFI etc.. I'm no pro, and not even pulling the handle slabs, I just like the ghetto satin look.

I've been using cork belts and having pretty good results -

sarqfinished.jpg


FINAL.jpg


The problem is, i'm going for a satin finish, and with the cork belts I'm finding it far too easy to end up with a mirror finish. The bridge between satin/mirror is very narrow with these belts IMO. I was wondering about scotchbrite belts.

Where can I order them? I need 1x30 as I haven't sprung for a new belt sander, and all I seem to be able to find is 1x42. What grits should I be using for a satin finish without getting into too high a polish? The larger knife (nmfbm) was finished with with a worn 400 grit belt, and the smaller knife (sarsquatch) was finished with an 800 grit cork belt, straight from a 320 carbide belt.

Thanks for any help!
 
when i put a satin finish on i dont use a scotchbrite belt even though i have one. i use a worn 400 grit belt.
 
1x30 ScotchBrite are available at TruGrit, but may not work for you.

My 1x30 is a HF special and won't even start with a ScotchBrite belt installed.
 
for a better (IMHO) satin finish, sandblast the blade, either take off the handles or mask them off with duct tape to keep them from getting pitted up. a good place to get blasting materials and tools is from Eastwood

Jason
 
glass bead, not sand will give a nice frosted look. from what i have seen sandblasting painted steel motorcycle parts, i wouldnt suggest sandblasting a blade.
 
My HF 1x30 also chokes with Scotch-Brite belts. It's hard to see how reflective your blades are, but the ones I've done with a fine grit gives a similar finish to yours.
 
If you have a buffer or a grinder you cut 6" circles then punch a hole in the center of 3-4 pieces of scotchbrite and it does a good job. Just be sure not to hit on the edges or they will shred and use a large flange or washer to prevent excess flexing.
 
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tait said:
1x30 ScotchBrite are available at TruGrit, but may not work for you.

My 1x30 is a HF special and won't even start with a ScotchBrite belt installed.
Click to expand...

I've been seeing people say that, I don't have a HF but a grizzly 1x30, but I'm thinking it's about the same quality. What's the issue, too tight a belt?
 
Scotchbrite belts are the way to go for a brushed/satin finish. I use them all the time. The final finish is done with a fine belt loaded with compound.
If the motor on your sander is small, they probably won't work as has been stated already.
Scott
 
230grains said:
I've been seeing people say that, I don't have a HF but a grizzly 1x30, but I'm thinking it's about the same quality. What's the issue, too tight a belt?
Click to expand...

I think it's not that the belt is too tight - it goes onto the wheels with less work than some belts. I think it's that it takes too much work to flex it around the wheels for that poor little 1/3 HP motor (if it's really even that strong).
 
Tait said:
1x30 ScotchBrite are available at TruGrit, but may not work for you.

My 1x30 is a HF special and won't even start with a ScotchBrite belt installed.
Click to expand...

Tait,
I sometimes have that problem as well. What I do sometimes if the belt is too tight but will still fit on the grinder, I stick two AA batteries behind the platn with the belt on and it stretches the belt out so the grinder can run smoothly. leave the batteries behind the platn for about 10 minutes, take them off and you're ready to grind.
 
I grind my bevels to 220 and then hit them with a medium (maroon/red) Scotchbrite belt, followed by a few passes with the fine (teal/blue). It gives a really nice satin finish (not anywhere near a polish) that looks good and functions well for blades that are going to be put to work.

You can get them through TruGrit.
 
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