scrach removal method

J

Jim Hataway

Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
19
I use Sandflex hand blocks in Course, medium, and fine. They are used much like an eraser. For minor scratches, medium and fine blocks are all you probably need. The blades so worked on will have a semi gloss finish that suits me fine for an edc knife. If you want more gloss, finish with SemiChorme. I would like to hear if others use this method, or believe there are better methods. Thanks.
 
Hey Jim welcome to the Porch glad to have you here. I'm not far from you over in Asheville.
I use sand paper and depending on the condition of the blade from 400 grit to 1200 and then finish up with Flitz Metal Polish. I do this by hand and the two most important things I have found are patience and elbow grease. We love pictures here so if you can post some of your process and results.
 
I view knives as tools that are intended to be used and I would rather have scratches than resurface or thin out the blades.
 
I also view my edc knives as tools, and scratch removal is one or maybe two times a year. Probably removes a micron's worth of blade, so I won't live long enough to see a problem re blade thickness. But maybe I am just OCD!
 
I scratch remove some of my blades but let most of them patina and get scuffed up. Do you have any before and after pictures?
 
I have a few knives that I would really like to fix up, I might give this a try. Welcome to BF and to the porch BTW!
 
Jim Hataway said:
I also view my edc knives as tools, and scratch removal is one or maybe two times a year. Probably removes a micron's worth of blade, so I won't live long enough to see a problem re blade thickness. But maybe I am just OCD!
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Haha! Maybe. I suppose anyone on a knife forum is at least a little obsessed with knives... especially if they have thousands of posts spanning around 10 years ;) :D

I don't polish a hammer after driving a nail. And I don't polish scratches on knives. But it's not a problem that you do. Just stay away from old knives that still have some of the original crocus or glazed finish! There aren't many old knives with original finish that have survived. Lots of old knives have been buffed. Old knives with original finish are rare to see now. :(
 
When I got my Shaptons one of the next things I did was to cut these pieces off my old (American made) Nortons just for the purpose of blade polishing. Using the end like an eraser. I planed to work through the grits. I have done very little of that, partly because I discovered coarser grits work better on broad surfaces unless I really want to go for a mirror which isn’t my thing right now.



I do use these for sharpening small knives by hand though VERY HANDY !
Pun not intended.

In the past I have used wet / dry paper in various grits wrapped around a soft rubber block for mirror polishing the sides of blades. The nature of the abrasive in wet / dry lends its self to scratch removal / polishing and healing (think BURNISHING) the surface as apposed to material removal which it sucks at big time. Zirconia is much better for stock removal but is very scratchy. I agree the wet / dry or other hand rubbed methods take a lot of work.

In the end I wish I had little cut offs of my coarsest Shaptons and that would be all I need. Maybe some day I will get brave enough to cut those stones.

Jim,
Thanks for the info on the pads you use. I might give those a try soon on a blade I just thinned.

Supratentorial,

I would rather have scratches than resurface or thin out the blades.
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Trust me; unless you have a Phil Wilson that is already super humanly thin there isn’t much chance you will do any significant thinning with these hand rubbed methods.

I just took a half mm off each side of the spine of a knife and 1/4 mm (10 thou) off each side of the edge just behind the edge and it took a power grinder to do it. I wasn’t getting anywhere fast with even a 250 grit brand new diamond file a foot long. Anyway I have yet to meet a knife that was too thin; especially near the edge.

I say descratch away to your heart’s content.
 
Wowbagger said:
Supratentorial,



Trust me; unless you have a Phil Wilson that is already super humanly thin there isn’t much chance you will do any significant thinning with these hand rubbed methods.

I just took a half mm off each side of the spine of a knife and 1/4 mm (10 thou) off each side of the edge just behind the edge and it took a power grinder to do it. I wasn’t getting anywhere fast with even a 250 grit brand new diamond file a foot long. Anyway I have yet to meet a knife that was too thin; especially near the edge.

I say descratch away to your heart’s content.
Click to expand...


This topic was moved here from Traditionals so the context has changed a little. A lot of well preserved antique knives get resurfaced even when some of the original crocus or glaze finish remains. One look at Ebay and you'll see that the vast majority of old knives have been stripped of any remaining original finish. In my opinion, it's a shame.

The amount of material may be small but the finish is no longer original. On a knife that's not 60-100 years old, I don't care very much about the original finish. I don't care about scratches on the blades either. Polishing off scratches has no benefit. Refinishing the blade has no benefit. Lots of folks like shiny. Some like knives as pocket jewelry and only use them for subjects in still life photos. ;) It just doesn't interest me.

On a blade that's thick behind the edge, thinning it with more aggressive methods is necessary... or just completely regrind it. You're right. Queens primary grinds on some knives were impressively thick. The original Queen Burke barlow has incredibly thick blades for a traditional slipjoint.
 
Just to clarify, I only have removed scratches from my edc ss peanut knife. I have a few mint vintage folders that I wouldn't touch. The peanut is about 10 years old, and has served me well. Also, thanks to the moderator for putting my original post into the proper forum. New to the site, and will get better. Thanks.
 
I remember having something similar to those blocks years ago. Wonderbar? Long since disappeared. I'll have to include those in my next Klingspor order and check them out.
 
Hello again,

I now think that the fine Sandflex block is a good strop for burr removal after a sharpening session. Anyone else?
 
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