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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Scratches on ti bolsters (how to remove)
- Thread starter DBH
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 6, 1998
- Messages
- 2,300
Dan,
It will depend on what type satin finish that you want to achieve. If you put 20 makers together, they'd come up with 30 ways of doing it
I'm assuming you plan to do it by hand.
A good brand of wet/dry finishing paper from an auto paint/parts store starting at the finest grit that will remove the scratches. I'd say 400 grit would be a safe start. Toughest part is keeping the sandpaper off the handle material. Masking tape helps. Find a rectangular pencil eraser (something like 1/4 x 3/4 x 2 1/2"). Cut the paper so you have a strip 8" x the width of the eraser and continously fold it around the eraser. As you sand and it clogs up, tear that side off and sand with the new side. The eraser cushions it but keeps even contact. Some makers leave the scratches across the bolster and others go lengthwise. Your choice.
Keep using finer grits until you get the desired results.
You can also use the 3M metal finishing pads (nylon woven) found at the auto paint/parts store. They come in several grits and leave a nice scratch pattern.
After you do a couple knives, you'll see why I like ceramic bead blast. Makes it easier to refurbish them
It will depend on what type satin finish that you want to achieve. If you put 20 makers together, they'd come up with 30 ways of doing it
I'm assuming you plan to do it by hand.
A good brand of wet/dry finishing paper from an auto paint/parts store starting at the finest grit that will remove the scratches. I'd say 400 grit would be a safe start. Toughest part is keeping the sandpaper off the handle material. Masking tape helps. Find a rectangular pencil eraser (something like 1/4 x 3/4 x 2 1/2"). Cut the paper so you have a strip 8" x the width of the eraser and continously fold it around the eraser. As you sand and it clogs up, tear that side off and sand with the new side. The eraser cushions it but keeps even contact. Some makers leave the scratches across the bolster and others go lengthwise. Your choice.
Keep using finer grits until you get the desired results.
You can also use the 3M metal finishing pads (nylon woven) found at the auto paint/parts store. They come in several grits and leave a nice scratch pattern.
After you do a couple knives, you'll see why I like ceramic bead blast. Makes it easier to refurbish them