scratches!$#@%##%#$&

Joined
Nov 12, 2000
Messages
131
Guys I have tried and tried and tried and tried to not put deep scratches in my blades before the hand rubbing and cannot seem to accomplish this. I have taken it slow on my 4x36 all the way to my finish grind of 320 and no matter how much I clean my belt or take it slow I seem to see thoise occasional sparks fly out from under my blade indicating I screwed up. The scratches are always deposited in 1 place, right in front of the ricasso at the first 1" of blade. Anyways I know that this happens because microscopic pieces of metal get caught in the belt and bang! I can never seem to get them all out while hand rubbing. What are some tricks. Like I said I have tried to be as careful as I can and cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. This last blade was probably my most perfect one to date and it has a few small scratches that are very noticeable that I cannot get out. I always start with brand new aluminum oxide belts. Help.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
are you killing the very edge of the new belts with ceramic? and adjusting the belts so they a 1/16 or less off the platen on the plunge cut side? this may get rid of the problem.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
I agree. Sounds like the edge of your belt is cutting in to much, almost like adding miniature plungs in as you move the blade back and forth.
Take a peice of barstock and use the end to dull the edge of your finishing belt. Do it to an old belt and keep it for finishing. you want the sharp belts with the good edges for grinding the plunge and the rest of the blade.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
Yes I am adjusting my belts but how do you keep them from moving? I adjust the right side so it overhangs a little but when the knife is applied to the belt it starts tracking outward on me. I have to compensate by adjusting it inward where there is no overhang cause I know it will track out when pressure is applied. The more pressure the more it tracks outward. I do not know how to correct this. What do you mean kill the edge? What can I use to do this that I may have laying around the house without buying a ceramic stone or something else.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
A piece of brick or other flat stone should work fine. I use a wheel dressing stone from Brownells.

It's quite likely that your problem is back at a rougher belt, and you're just not seeing it until you get to the 320. Try cleaning it up with a light touch on the 120 belt (either fresh or dressed as suggested above), then go to a fresh 320.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
www.hossom.com/gallery
The New Tom & Jerry Show
 
Howdy There...!
I have a suggestion on your tracking problem. When my grinder does that, it usally means that the belt has strechedand that your arm that is the mounting for your contact wheel needs adjusting. I simply losen the bolts and slide my mounting arm farther out, just an 1/8" or less and that takes care of the problem. Give that a try, and good luck grinding.
Later "Possum"


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Thomas Clegg
 
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