Screwy Question

[stabber]

OK, Pimpers!! When you remove the Original tube fasters on the Handles, Where can I get those nifty screw/bolt combo that fits O so well? Thanks, Stabber:thumbup:

 

[GregS]

Informative thread, I hope this helps...vvv I also heard that Jeremy Horton had some dies, I'm not sure if he has anymore or not.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=592459&highlight=flaring

 

[RoyalM]

You could try either these at Pop's knife supplies:
LINK

or these at Knifekits.com:
LINK

 

[GregS]

Dangit, I misunderstood the OP's post, well... I tried.

 

[Jeremy Horton]

Tracy Mickley,,

USA KNIFEMAKERS SUPPLY

Got em,, on Lock,,

 

[J. Rosa]

If you are talking about these here you go.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=906

I would get the flat head screws since the Busse scales are already countersunk. If you get the button head screws the scales have to be counterbored to have a FLAT shoulder for the button hed to rest on. The flat are more secure and less work any way INMHO.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=1070

 

[J. Rosa]

Oops. Maybe i misunderstood. Did you mean Corby bolts?

 

[stabber]

You guys are the Best:thumbup:

I should have figured Tracy Mickley would have them. I'll pick up some Ren Wax too

thanks, Stabber:thumbup:

 

[Last Visible Canary]

machine screws+steel standoffs are pretty darn awesome.

 

[kdstrick]

oops... double tap...

 

[kdstrick]

If you are talking about these here you go.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=906

I would get the flat head screws since the Busse scales are already countersunk. If you get the button head screws the scales have to be counterbored to have a FLAT shoulder for the button hed to rest on. The flat are more secure and less work any way INMHO.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=1070

You found them. Here is what they look like.... on my modded SAR5...

 

[Last Visible Canary]

be really careful that you don't countersink to deep into the handle slabs, the size of your stand off will be surprisingly small to begin with on a 3/16" thick knife, and it's easy to over do it and make it impossible (make scrap of the handle slab).

also - when you remove the slabs, make sure to mark or lay out the stand offs in the exact order they were in the knife, otherwise you'll have to re-sand the scales to get a truly flush finish again, since each stand off's positioning is slightly different and will hold the scales about +/- .010" off if you mix up the positions.


that is - if your doing this on home equipment. it's more that the stand offs variance combine with the variance in positioning for the drilled holes and countersinks to make that unique order of assembly. if you have a machine shop and can run everything to within .002" tolerances remembering the stand off order will probably be a lot less important. I'm not sure about replacing the tube fasteners on factory scales - I imagine they would be pretty close...