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Tommegow

Tommegow

Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Messages
678
Hi there !!
first post here !?!
I am newb kit knife assembler from So.Ga. Hope to begin grinding blades soon.
I need a "scribe" to mark grind lines on blade blanks. Anyone have plans for one, or source for an inexpensive one?
Last tool, before I buy some steel
Thanks Y'all
Tom
So.Ga.
 
Is your question regarding marking the centerlines for the edge? If so, then the highpriced spread would be a granite surface plate and a surface height guage.

There are several cheaper tools available thru supply houses like Sheffield.

An economy way to accomplish that task is to buy some cheap allen wrenches the approximate thickness of your steel. Grind the short leg to an approximately centered point. You now have a scribe that will lay flat, and you can drag along the edge of the steel to mark. Flip the steel over, mark from the other side also, and the area in the middle is your center. You can get a marble tile from the local flooring place, or a small section of plate glass to use as a surface plate.

If you are looking for a pencil-type scribe, get a dowel and drill a hole into one end. Take the drill bit, epoxy it into the end of the dowel, then grind a point on the bit. Not as hard as tungsten, but it will mark annealed steel.
 
I got mine at Jantz supply, but Knife and Gun finishing supplies and Texas Knifemaker supply carry them also. These are carbide tipped and will permanently draw a line on the steel for you. I've used the daylights out of mine.

The one I got from Jantz is the tungsten carbide scriber and magnet. #GN88CM. It was like $5.95 according to this old invoice. Replacement points are slightly over $2 I think. Prices may have changed since I got mine so don't hold me to that.

Steve
 
People laugh all the time at my scribe. It's an Exact-O knife with the #11 blade.
I can scribe a line down to the thousanth and when it dulls, put another blade in. #11 are the sharp pointed ones and I use the back side, not the cutting edge. It will scribe on hard steel, leaves a nice crisp line on micarta, G10 and other handle material.
 
Tom,
If you would like to meet and get to know a bunch of very talented and gifted knifemakers that are fellow Georgians, I invite you to attend our next Georgia Custom Knifemaker's Guild meeting. We have them quarterly. Our next one is February at Twinblades Knife Shop. Please check out our website, you can find the link below. We also have a forum over on TKN. Information on the next meeting will be posted soon. We have demos and tech discussions, you can learn a lot in a very short time and makes some very good friends in the process. Don't be intimidated or shy as we have members that range from novice to long time professional makers and everyone is welcome. There are no obligations if you come, except to have a good time.
If I can help you with any more info please let me know.
Carl Rechsteiner
GCKG President
Here's the link:
http://georgiaknifemakersguild.com/home/
 

I doubt I could scribe the lines free hand This is what i need, but it's $30 with shipping I'll see what I can make first.
save that money for steel
Thanks for advise
Tom
 
Tom,
Look at the device closely. If you have any scrap metal in your shop at all, you can make one in less than an hour. If you don't have a broken carbide bit laying around for the scribe point, use a regular broken drill bit. If you are setup and making knives this should be a very simple and quick project.
Hardest part would be tapping the bolt holes. There's where you spend the money -taps and dies - very useful and resuable tools.
Carl Rx
 
A down and dirty way that works...

Spray your edge lightly with blue layout fluid and let it dry.

Lay your blade down on a piece of glass, get a drill bit and lay it down on the glass as well and scribe with the end of the drill bit. Turn the blade over and scribe the second line.

You can use different size bits for different widths of steel.

For forged blades, all bets are off. No scribe is needed.

Craig
 
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