SE and the Sharpmaker

[harronek]

I recently got a Salt 1 SE to try something different ( Never had H1 before , never used a SE edged knife before )
After using it at work for a week it is time to give the edge a tickle up .
Using my Sharpmaker I have restored the edge but not to the standard of when it was new .
On my plain edged Spydercos I can get them scary sharp , but obviously the SE demands a different technique .
My question is after doing multiple passes on the SE side you need to remove the burr on the flat side , do you lay the blade flat against the stone or do you keep the blade vertical like you would when sharpening a normal blade and create a type of mini bevel ?

Ken

 

[Barman1]

Work up a burr then strop the flat side.
Generally all I need to do is strop the flat side, no stone work whatsoever.
But if all you have is a Sharpmaker then remove the burr at the shallowest angle possible. No bevel.

 

[Surfingringo]

Hi Ken, here is an answer that I made in another thread the I will just copy and paste here. You should be able to get it razor sharp again.

Serrated Edge:

Fine rods in the 40 degree slots. Three passes on the serrated (left) side pulling straight down like normal. Then 2 very light passes on the back side. When working the back side, tilt the knife so it is almost flat with the rod...about 5 degrees instead of the 20 degree angle you would get if you pulled straight down. Repeat until sharp. Thats pretty much it. One tip is you want to go fairly slow and keep the pressure fairly light so that you don't "jump" the serrations. If you go too slow it doesn't work....too fast either. There is a certain speed at which the rod will smoothly enter and sharpen each of the individual serrations as you pull the knife down. It will be pretty obvious once you are doing it and have a tactile feel for it.

 

[jorismo]

Thanks from me too for the pointers.
My new SE Pacific Salt is a first for H1 as well (with an ARK round my neck for some PE) and it needs some more sharpening than the little CE/SE in other steels before so I'm learning as it goes. Great knives btw!

 

[vanslem6]

Hi Ken, here is an answer that I made in another thread the I will just copy and paste here. You should be able to get it razor sharp again.

Serrated Edge:

Fine rods in the 40 degree slots. Three passes on the serrated (left) side pulling straight down like normal. Then 2 very light passes on the back side. When working the back side, tilt the knife so it is almost flat with the rod...about 5 degrees instead of the 20 degree angle you would get if you pulled straight down. Repeat until sharp. Thats pretty much it. One tip is you want to go fairly slow and keep the pressure fairly light so that you don't "jump" the serrations. If you go too slow it doesn't work....too fast either. There is a certain speed at which the rod will smoothly enter and sharpen each of the individual serrations as you pull the knife down. It will be pretty obvious once you are doing it and have a tactile feel for it.

I tried this, two nights ago w/ my Tasman SE (I meant to respond to that other thread and say 'thanks!'). The tip for the 'backside' made all the difference. :thumb up:

I destroyed some boxes with that knife today, and it's still shredding everything in sight. I was waiting for a truck to arrive (3 pallets of crap), and got carried away trimming trees around the house with it. I could live with that knife and my FFG Delica alone.

It doesn't always make the cleanest cuts, but it seems unstoppable.

It also opens bottles. (it was a long wait…)