SE options .. opinions.

Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
1,380
I'm eyeing a se tasman, seems nice to have a se and hawkbill design together.
I'm also looking forward to magnacut manix salt.

But if go se with the manix, I'm concerned that it will be a pita to sharpen.
What are your thoughts on this ?
Just to be clear I don't need a knife. It's apparently a illness.
 
It won’t be a pain to sharpen, it’ll just take a little more time. Tapered rods for serrated blades do exist, and you can use one free handed or with a guided system.
I’ve got one from KME and I’ve had no issues with it.
 
I'm eyeing a se tasman, seems nice to have a se and hawkbill design together.
I'm also looking forward to magnacut manix salt.

But if go se with the manix, I'm concerned that it will be a pita to sharpen.
What are your thoughts on this ?
Just to be clear I don't need a knife. It's apparently a illness.
Check out the sharp maker and the related instructional videos.
 
I have the lansky guided system.
I don't use it .
Guess I need to buy the real deal with diamond rods.
Ceramic doesn't seem to work.
 


S Skar I made this video a while back that shows how easy it is on the sharp maker. Forgive me for trying to do it while looking through my phone camera, If I recorded it again I’d probably try to explain it a little better, it’s not perfect but you should get the idea. I may do that 3-5 times before flipping it over but… There’s multiple ways to do it and that’s an easy one for us non professionals. Reprofiling them is a chore so I just do that and it’s worked for me for years and years. Also, sharpening a hawkbill is the same as a regular serrated knife. Just hold it straight and do not try to follow the curve on the sharpmaker.
 
Last edited:
I have the lansky guided system.
I don't use it .
Guess I need to buy the real deal with diamond rods.
Ceramic doesn't seem to work.
Sounds like a great idea! That said, depending on the steel, and how dull you let a blade get, ceramics will keep most steel sharp with just touch-ups. Most of my sharpening is just touching up on a cheap ceramic rod. I think you would be served very well to pick up the stock sharpmaker and upgrade rods as you desire.
 
Sounds like a great idea! That said, depending on the steel, and how dull you let a blade get, ceramics will keep most steel sharp with just touch-ups. Most of my sharpening is just touching up on a cheap ceramic rod. I think you would be served very well to pick up the stock sharpmaker and upgrade rods as you desire.

I agree. In fact all I use on the SM is the diamond or CBN rods and the brown rods is as fine as I go. Coarser edges generally work better and last longer for EDC blades IMO. I don’t even use the fine rods and I’ve never purchased the ultra fine.
 


S Skar I made this video a while back that shows how easy it is on the sharp maker. Forgive me for trying to do it while looking through my phone camera, If I recorded it again I’d probably try to explain it a little better, it’s not perfect but you should get the idea. I may do that 3-5 times before flipping it over but… There’s multiple ways to do it and that’s an easy one for us non professionals. Reprofiling them is a chore so I just do that and it’s worked for me for years and years. Also, sharpening a hawkbill is the same as a regular serrated knife. Just hold it straight and do not try to follow the curve on the sharpmaker.
Wow... that does look easy.
Thank you for the demonstration.
 
Wow... that does look easy.
Thank you for the demonstration.
You’re most welcome. I’m glad I was able to find it, I uploaded it for another forum over a year ago. Figuring out that in some ways sharpening serrated blades can be easier than plain edge blades opens up a whole new realm of cutlery possibilities. I didn’t like serrated edges until I could sharpen them, and as the points round over with sharpening they will actually cut better and snag less.
 
Back
Top