seal or not to seal the handle.

J

johnme

Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
5
Hi everyone,
I just bought a Condor bushlore with the walnut handles that are not finished.
Not sure if I should seal the wood. Don't want the wood to fade or crack / shrink.
Looking for some help from everyone.
The wood looks good, but with some more sanding the wood will be great.
I'm happy with the knife and a great sheath for only $36.00.
 
Post up a picture. I would suggest Sno-Seal. It is a beeswax product that will waterproof your leather sheaths and handles. It might slightly darken the wood or leather though. To apply, just wipe liberally in gobs to the handle and melt the product with a hair drier on medium to high heat until it is completely melted and allow the product to flow over the handle or leather with the drier. Then work it in with a cloth and wipe of excess. I use it on all my leather handled knives and to restore old handles and leather. Works great and is useful for waterproofing leather and wood. It also works to plump up shrunk leather handles on knives and restore shine and polish without sanding. Please post up a picture of what you are talking about and I can better advise you on what to do to get where you want to be with your project.
http://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Sea...d=1440700550&sr=8-1&keywords=sno-seal+beeswax
 
You could also sand to 600grit or more and put a few coats of durable poly on the handles.
 
Just ordered one as well and had the same question. I was thinking about sanding and treating with teak oil. Suggestions would be GREEAT!
 
The axe guys use boiled linseed oil a lot. I've used it on knives and it works great. Apply liberally, rub in, let sit a while, wipe off "dry"'with a rag, let really dry a day or three, and repeat process until you get tired of it. Can be touched up easily if/when needed. Unlike thinner oils, it will fill the pores and really bring out highlights in the wood.
 
I've always used boiled linseed oil to seal wood for outdoor use.
The gunnels and woodwork on one of my canoes was done this way
from the factory.
Loosen the cap,leave in the sun for 10 minutes to warm up.
Apply with a soft cloth and keep the surface wet.
Wipe off after 15 or 20 minutes.
let dry for 1/2 an hour and reapply.
leave cloth in a container of water until you are ready to dispose of it.
this last step is very important as linseed oil on a rag will spontaeniously combust
if allowed to heat up.
I hope this wasn't too long winded.
 
A good additional question is, what would be the best treatment if your knife is going to come in contact with food you eat? I will be using my knife mostly at my fruit farm (a lot of cut fruit from my knife directly to my mouth).
 
Use Danish Oil. It's a tung oil blend that will harden IN the wood and do a great job.
Very easy to work with and rather inexpensive.
Just read and follow directions.
 
johnme said:
seal the handle.
Click to expand...
spotted-seal-skinned-with-traditional-eskimo-walrus-ivory-handled-AAN026.jpg
 
That is the beauty of Condor knives mod em' how you like, they aren't that expensive and can be very easily personalized.
 
Most of the suggestions here will merely 'treat' and maybe waterproof for a while. Eventually it will absorb oil from your hand and darken nicely. Nothing bad about that. However, if you haven't done any of that yet, consider this....

If, you want to seal and PROTECT the wood, as well as bring out the beauty of the grain, sand it lightly and apply several coats of a good clear polyurethane product, letting it dry well between coats. It will not make the handle overly 'slick' as some may suggest, particularly after a bit of use. It's the best thing you can do to truly protect the look of the wood and grain over time.

Any treated wood will blemish with use over time but that what adds character to the wood and knife.
 
EChoil said:
Most of the suggestions here will merely 'treat' and maybe waterproof for a while. Eventually it will absorb oil from your hand and darken nicely. Nothing bad about that. However, if you haven't done any of that yet, consider this....

If, you want to seal and PROTECT the wood, as well as bring out the beauty of the grain, sand it lightly and apply several coats of a good clear polyurethane product, letting it dry well between coats. It will not make the handle overly 'slick' as some may suggest, particularly after a bit of use. It's the best thing you can do to truly protect the look of the wood and grain over time.

Any treated wood will blemish with use over time but that what adds character to the wood and knife.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
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