Sealing a wooden handle???

[BuckFan1357]

I just found a old kitchen knife that was my dads. I took it to the stone and strop for a bit, polished up the blade and am now looking to sand and refinish the Rosewood handle.

What does everybody suggest for a good food grade oil/sealant to use?

 

[EngrSorenson]

Most wood turners are familiar with the old Mineral oil & beeswax combo that we use on items that come in contact with food. You’ll have to reapply every so often, but it’s a sure fire food grade bet, and it’s super easy to use.

I use George’s Club House Wax for anything like that, and it’s great stuff.

 

[knarfeng]

I've used straight mineral oil, the kind they sell at the pharmacy for use as a laxative. It's food safe. And it's cheap. (like me)

 

[AriesTheCam]

Most wood turners are familiar with the old Mineral oil & beeswax combo that we use on items that come in contact with food. You’ll have to reapply every so often, but it’s a sure fire food grade bet, and it’s super easy to use.

I use George’s Club House Wax for anything like that, and it’s great stuff.

This is the best way. You could also use food grade boiled linseed oil for your purposes.

Ive seen tru-oil, tung oil, or even super glue used to seal a wood handle in the past. There's lots of ways but I would recommend you go with Engr's suggestions. It'll get great results cheap.

If you do it you can buff the handle with increasing steps in grit from 600 to 1000 and then seal it. Don't move up in grit til your scratch pattern is uniform. Oh and the more applications of an oil on your wood handle will only make it look and feel better in hand from my experience

Hope we get to see the finished work

 

[Old Biker]

There is a company, Tried & True, that makes a line of food grade linseed oil finishes. No heavy metals involved.

O.B.

 

[Alberta Ed]

Cutting board conditioner works well on wood handles.

 

[thebrain]

I would also suggest butcher block or cutting board conditioner. It is a combination of bee's wax and oils(that don't go rancid)that don't overly soften the wood but also help prevent moisture intrusion while also helping prevent cracking from over drying after exposure to water.

 

[AriesTheCam]

..

 

[AriesTheCam]

Cutting board conditioner works well on wood handles.

I would also suggest butcher block or cutting board conditioner. It is a combination of bee's wax and oils(that don't go rancid)that don't overly soften the wood but also help prevent moisture intrusion while also helping prevent cracking from over drying after exposure to water.

This sounds like a fantastic idea. Never knew that existed.. gonna have to give it a try now.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Mineral oil is a non-drying oil and will stay "wet" and beeswax is a very soft wax that fingerprints. Not to toot my own horn, but I developed my Super Safflower wax polish specifically because of these shortcomings. It uses a food-grade high-linoleic acid safflower oil, which does not discolor the wood, with a blend of food-safe microcrystalline paraffin and polyethylene wax (which is the stuff used to wax the inside of milk cartons etc.) and the safflower oil will eventually oxidize and polymerize like linseed oil does, but with a milder odor and without yellowing as badly with age, which is why it is used by painters in mixing light-colored oil paints.

 

[Barry H]

There is a company, Tried & True, that makes a line of food grade linseed oil finishes. No heavy metals involved.

O.B.

I use Tried and True products on my wood turning products. It's a little expensive but a little goes a long long way!

 

[donnord]

I use tung oil finish for most handles after sanding to about 600 grit, I then apply the tung oil finish to handle using 0000 steel wool. let it sit for about 10ish minutes then wipe off. Let it dry then recoat a few times.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Mineral oil is a non-drying oil and will stay "wet" and beeswax is a very soft wax that fingerprints. Not to toot my own horn, but I developed my Super Safflower wax polish specifically because of these shortcomings. It uses a food-grade high-linoleic acid safflower oil, which does not discolor the wood, with a blend of food-safe microcrystalline paraffin and polyethylene wax (which is the stuff used to wax the inside of milk cartons etc.) and the safflower oil will eventually oxidize and polymerize like linseed oil does, but with a milder odor and without yellowing as badly with age, which is why it is used by painters in mixing light-colored oil paints.

Available?

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Available?

Yup! On the website! I also developed a solvent-based polish, PineUltimate, that uses high-purity naphtha and α-pinene as solvents as an alternative to Renaissance Wax. The PineUltimate is better on steel since it leaves only wax behind if you ever want to remove the finish, while the Super Safflower will eventually oxidize into a natural polymer like linseed oil does, and that can be stubborn to remove on steel. It's easily removed on wood by scraping it off, though, and it's very durable. The PineUltimate is also fast-drying so it's ready for use or storage in a matter of minutes rather than taking a few days to soak in and dry completely, though you can handle a treated piece without issue.

 

[AriesTheCam]

Yup! On the website! I also developed a solvent-based polish, PineUltimate, that uses high-purity naphtha and α-pinene as solvents as an alternative to Renaissance Wax. The PineUltimate is better on steel since it leaves only wax behind if you ever want to remove the finish, while the Super Safflower will eventually oxidize into a natural polymer like linseed oil does, and that can be stubborn to remove on steel. It's easily removed on wood by scraping it off, though, and it's very durable. The PineUltimate is also fast-drying so it's ready for use or storage in a matter of minutes rather than taking a few days to soak in and dry completely, though you can handle a treated piece without issue.

How'd I never know you make this!? I'll be picking up a tin soon. Sounds like some solid stuff.