Seams in refractory...tough to seal ?

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
Alright, I've had my forge built for a couple weeks now and still heat treated the last three knives on the ground with my little pile of firebricks cause I haven't got the damn thing lined yet. Just keep putting it off.
I think I'll buy the stuff from Darren Ellis, looks like he has exactly what I need and good prices too :)

Question is, would I better off using 1" ceramic blanket and using 2 layers rotated so the seams don't line up? Or should I just go with the 2" blanket and plan on the Satanite sealing things up good and tight?
My forge body is made out of a 25 lb propane tank so I don't want a hot spot where the seam is warping the hell out of it the first time I fire it up.I don't have the money to go for the ITC100 stuff yet, and I won't be trying to weld with it so I'm not worried about that yet. Going to use 2" firebricks for the floor since I have a whole pile of them. I'll try to post some pics when its done (if it works :footinmout )
 
The more the better. I've just got one 2" layer in my little freon tank forge. Just cut it so that you get a good tight fit and it will be fine. Just seal that wool with sometning. If you have to wait till you can afford the itc....wait. You will be much happier with the performance.
 
The reflective quality of the ITC100 will greatly increase your efficiency. Get it as soon as you can. T
 
Thanks guys
I did the math and it won't be all that expensive after all.
I'm going to go ahead and use the 1" blanket and put a double layer in so that the seams don't line up. Then I'll coat it nice and heavy with satanite and then try some ITC100
 
Hey Matt,

Dont go too heavy with the satanite. I've seen it start to slump from its own weight after a few hours of use. On my long horizontal forge I mainly just have a layer on the bottom to protect it.
 
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