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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Seax etching pix. Worth a look.
- Thread starter Bill Martino
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just fabulous...
very clean, crisp lines.
Great work!
very clean, crisp lines.
Great work!
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Good stuff! I'll second Dan's analysis - very crisp and clear on the rune etchings. Also great pics!
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WOW!
Great work.
Great work.
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and thanks fer posting them, Uncle. As you say in the other thread--slow day.
Here's the text:
#1
The FeCl etchant I used for these blades. It'll etch iron and hi-carbon steel, although it is intended to cut copper. (also works on brass and bronze). I disregard most of the instructions--i don't bother with gloves (wear eye protection tho), and I mix it with distilled water. Actually improves the cutting process on steel. Leaves a stain like Iodine on just about anything, including fingers.
#2
The etchant tub and utility sink, with ladel. I used to use big tanks and tubes to do pieces, then I discovered that repeatedly ladelling FeCl onto the piece is easier and cuts better than immersion. This is a pic right after I added equal parts of water to the tub.
#3
The tools of the trade: Etchant, etchant tub, baking soda, ladle, and blades taped up and ready to etch. I used a clear mask (tape) so I could compare the steel to the cut, and to make sure I didn't have any leaks in the mask. The baking soda neutralizes the FeCl. Before dumping an old batch of FeCl, I neutralize it with the soda, which fizzes orange. Uh, remember not to add directly to the FeCl, but to a diluted solution. When I finish etching a piece, I rinse with water and add soda directly to the piece to stop the FeCl.
#4
Pic of Beoram's seax. Anglo-Saxon inscription for "Sher made me".
#5
Other side of Beo's seax, overlayed on pic of proto-giant Ymir in Ginnungagap. Norse creation myth.
#6
Shows an X to me (i.e. I can't view the pic), so I dunno what it is...
Knowing the pix I sent, I bet it is the Tiw rune on Raggy's seax, overlayed across an excellent book on A-S warriors. Check out Anglo-Saxon Books online.
#7
Raghorn's etched Seax. Note that the text just above the blade refers to horn handles on seaxes. Also, the section states that no "chiruwa" style seaxes (with full tang construction held together with rivets or pins) have ever been found in England. Book is "English Warrior to 1066".
#8
Close up of Sweet's seax after tape mask and design draw, and before cutting the mask. After you cut the mask, the blades look like they do in pic #3.
#9
One sweet seax--literally. Sweet's seax on another good book.
THassall fer now.
Keith
Here's the text:
#1
The FeCl etchant I used for these blades. It'll etch iron and hi-carbon steel, although it is intended to cut copper. (also works on brass and bronze). I disregard most of the instructions--i don't bother with gloves (wear eye protection tho), and I mix it with distilled water. Actually improves the cutting process on steel. Leaves a stain like Iodine on just about anything, including fingers.
#2
The etchant tub and utility sink, with ladel. I used to use big tanks and tubes to do pieces, then I discovered that repeatedly ladelling FeCl onto the piece is easier and cuts better than immersion. This is a pic right after I added equal parts of water to the tub.
#3
The tools of the trade: Etchant, etchant tub, baking soda, ladle, and blades taped up and ready to etch. I used a clear mask (tape) so I could compare the steel to the cut, and to make sure I didn't have any leaks in the mask. The baking soda neutralizes the FeCl. Before dumping an old batch of FeCl, I neutralize it with the soda, which fizzes orange. Uh, remember not to add directly to the FeCl, but to a diluted solution. When I finish etching a piece, I rinse with water and add soda directly to the piece to stop the FeCl.
#4
Pic of Beoram's seax. Anglo-Saxon inscription for "Sher made me".
#5
Other side of Beo's seax, overlayed on pic of proto-giant Ymir in Ginnungagap. Norse creation myth.
#6
Shows an X to me (i.e. I can't view the pic), so I dunno what it is...
Knowing the pix I sent, I bet it is the Tiw rune on Raggy's seax, overlayed across an excellent book on A-S warriors. Check out Anglo-Saxon Books online.
#7
Raghorn's etched Seax. Note that the text just above the blade refers to horn handles on seaxes. Also, the section states that no "chiruwa" style seaxes (with full tang construction held together with rivets or pins) have ever been found in England. Book is "English Warrior to 1066".
#8
Close up of Sweet's seax after tape mask and design draw, and before cutting the mask. After you cut the mask, the blades look like they do in pic #3.
#9
One sweet seax--literally. Sweet's seax on another good book.
THassall fer now.
Keith