sebbie sharpening

Joined
Dec 12, 2004
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339
I purchased a used small sebbie from a fellow formite. It has the BG-42 blade. I have been thinking about sending it back to CRK for a sharpening job. Was told it only cost 9$ (the cost for shipping and insurance). Is the edge that CRK puts on the sebbie's worth sending them in for ? Like hair popping sharp? I just can't get that speial edge on the sharp maker. CRK said it takes about a week to get it done and back in my hands. I don't mind the one week wait, but am interested in the results ? Do you guys send in your knives for sharpening and would you recomend it ?
Thanks again,
Jay
 
the factory sharpening is about 20deg per side and finish on a leather/felt belt, creating a convex edge. It will pop hair, no worries.

I prefer to put my own 15deg per side edge and v-grind. My edge will be sharper than the factory edge due to it being non-convex and more acute. that being said, the 20deg convex is a more durable edge.
 
i just recieved my bg42 small sebi back from crk-for 9 bucks they put on a polished edge thats plenty sharp, a lanyard and tuneup-
its more than worth the 9 beans-

was my favorite piece till my lum chinese arrived yesterday also-there is a dog fight brewing for my edc
 
For quite a while I thought thier edge was great, but after having experienced a Caly jr. in ZDP-189 I now feel there edges are just medium. If you're talented you'll probably do better yourself.

I'm kinda stuck as I'm not talented but want sharper edges.
 
I don't think any production company or many custom knifemakers put an edge that is better than on NIB calypsos, or, for that matter many of their 1/8" stock blades. I think that's there truth.

However, you have to compare like for like. 15 vs 15, not 20 deg. The edge is convexed on CRKs, but v-grind on Spydies.

Perhaps CRK can look at putting sharper edge on their sebbies by doing 15deg and v-grind - I'm sure that the existing edge can be improved.
 
Hey Dave:

Get yourself an Edge Pro Apex. I've always had a problem with sharpening. With the Shaprmaker I could only get a medocre edge but once I got used to the Edge-Pro, holy cow I can get a sharp edge!;)
 
spyken said:
I don't think any production company or many custom knifemakers put an edge that is better than on NIB calypsos, or, for that matter many of their 1/8" stock blades. I think that's there truth.

However, you have to compare like for like. 15 vs 15, not 20 deg. The edge is convexed on CRKs, but v-grind on Spydies.
I'm fairly sure spyderco use a circular stone for sharpening so their edges are slightly hollow ground (the very edge will be less the 15degrees)
My calypso had the worst edge of any production knife (it was a VG10 one BTW)
 
For sharpness as such it's hard to beat William Henry edge.

However, Sebenza comes still scary sharp, but thanks to convex edge it holds it considerably longer than standard stright edge (like the one on Spyderco) that huge majority of manufacturers put on their blades. And that is the biggest benefit of CRK factory edge IMHO.
 
My large lefty classic was an axe out of the box - would clip hair if you closed one eye and held your tongue just right. It was an embarrassment to show to anyone who knew what a sharp blade was. I kept it like that for 2 weeks until I learned the one hand open/close technique for both hands.

Reprofiled with EdgePro Pro to 10 deg per side pri and 13 deg sec - better - reprofiled to 8 de per side and 13 deg sec - better but chip outs - then 8/15 - same but fewer chip out - now 8/17 - and we'll see.

This blade material WILL NOT respond to polishing tapes - I have tried every variation of pull stroke / push stroke - increasing angle / degreasing angle - all increase the "grainyness" of the slice and push cutting I do on my paper testing - each time this effect is reversed with 2 light passes on each side with a brushed clean and wet 600 stone. All I can imagine is the soft conformable tape is removing the softer mat'l around the harder chunks of wear resistant mat'l in the blade metal - leaving a skeletonized edge. The hard stone cannot conform, so it leaves this softer mat'l and that results in a smoother edge and better paper cutting.

Other than blade mat'l - this folder is a work or art in its fit and finish - the blade grinds (if done by hand) are so well done they deserves a handshake and a coffee - and the whole package fits my hand and my clothing perfectly.

Hopefully with chip outs will stop at the 8/17 deg geometry - it still is an excellent cutter like this and the stones now clear the thumb stud on both sides of the blade - but pales as a cutter when compared to my mid eighties Buck 110 with it's blade shape and 425MOD steel and Buck heat treat. That material does respond to strop/tapes and simply slices better that this blade ever has - it is sharpened and polished to 13 deg a side with no pri/sec bevels.

I will have this knife re-bladed when CReeve switches material - in the interim - maybe I will get into less chip out-able mat'l once I get further into the blade.

When all is said in done - the Buck is in the box and the Sebenza is on my hip - so that in itself tells you how important the final bit of cutting ability means to me vs the entire Sebbie package.

To those who feel a $425 pocket knife should be left alone, or that my reprofiling the "superior" S30V material created the chipping problem - well - I expect more from ANY tool I use - and feel a little silly about NOT taking a stone to something that can be out-cut by every pocket knife I own - most of which cost 1/10th the price.

MAT
 
The chip outs have stopped at the 8/17 degree profile (after 2 more complete sharpenings with that final profile). I cut packages, paper, plastic camshells, cardboard - but no scraping or actions that put lateral stress on the edge. Final finish on the edge is an Edgepro 600 stone brushed, rinsed, then wiped dry - used with only the weight on the stone. If I am lucky, the blade was brittle that the very edge, and that material has been removed.

Another blade of a different lot / different heat treat may behave differently - this is what it took to make mine cut well for the tasks that I run across with my EDC

MAT
 
For those of you sharpening Sebenza on the sharpmaker, Is it correct to use the 30 degree angle slots? Since the orignal blade profile is 20 degrees, should I be placing something under the sharpener to increase the angle?

I haven't got a huge amount of sharpening experience, other than just brightening up the kitchen knives with a steel. I purchased the sharpmaker and a leather strop when I bought my Sebenza, and would like to do the best job possible.

BTW: This is my first post. After browsing the site for a couple weeks I purchased a small classic Sebenza from True North Knives, and I love it. I learned a great deal from Bladeforums and the CRK forum in particular.
 
I think that the sharpmaker also has a 40 degree option which puts it at 20 degrees for each side.;)
 
I sharpen all mine at 30 on a 204.That edge is sharp enough with out being to thin to hold up.
 
bbcmat said:
The chip outs have stopped at the 8/17 degree profile (after 2 more complete sharpenings with that final profile). I cut packages, paper, plastic camshells, cardboard - but no scraping or actions that put lateral stress on the edge. Final finish on the edge is an Edgepro 600 stone brushed, rinsed, then wiped dry - used with only the weight on the stone. If I am lucky, the blade was brittle that the very edge, and that material has been removed.

Another blade of a different lot / different heat treat may behave differently - this is what it took to make mine cut well for the tasks that I run across with my EDC

MAT

I'm glad you found what works for you. I finally sent my blade in to get re-hardened, hopefully up to at least 60 HRC or so. I've been so frustrated by mine (small seb, S30V), I considered selling it, but decided to try this. Fit and finish are great, but it gets a lousy edge and holds it about as long as AUS 6. Ugh. Can't wait to get it back, but wish I had one in BG 42...
 
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