Recommendation? Sebenza 21 early lock up question

T

Tony636

Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
52
Hello! so long story short I bought a new 21 from 2018 so it felt really bad dry action so I disassembled to re-lube it up, and before I did so the lock up was around 55 or so percent and now it is earlier at around 35 to 40 percent I'd say. I am pretty sure it is because I probably didn't put the stop pin sleeve back exactly so the blade is wearing against a new side of the stop pin. Everything is super solid and smooth just early lock up and a little lock stick so I'm wondering if having it that early is bad or if it will wear in over a few months? Thanks
 
Did stick exist when you bought it? If no and it now has lock stick, disassemble and try again.
 
It had lock stick new out of box and then when I had it back together it had no lock stick and was earlier lock but now the stick is coming back, it’s not bad stick at all
loon#r said:
Did stick exist when you bought it? If no and it now has lock stick, disassemble and try again.
Click to expand...
 
No, it's not bad. Some of mine have around the same, some later. It will wear in and settle a little later. It may take some time. Some of my older ones have settled to about 70% and haven't moved.
 
Ajack60 said:
No, it's not bad. Some of mine have around the same, some later. It will wear in and settle a little later. It may take some time. Some of my older ones have settled to about 70% and haven't moved.
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Yeah that’s what I’m hoping for, I just won’t take it apart for a few more months probably, after I sharpen it a few times
 
I am curious if you clean the lock bar or blade with isopropyl , I sometimes had lock stick after cleaning with Iso,
now I just use dish soap and a toothbrush and it does not seem to cause lock stick after reassembly ?
 
Dont use windex. Honestly CRK grease never made the lock stick or affected lock up for the most part for me. But I'd use alcohol if you need to clean it.

Why dont you adjust all the screws so they are threaded in all the way but not snug. Flick it open once or twice and then while it is still locked up crank the screws down.

If you have continued issues with this model
Grab an Inkosi. It's more user friendly imo.

On the subject of lock stick I have always experienced just a tiny bit of grab pretty much every crk I've ever owned. I'd say it's better to have a little bit of friction then none at all.
 
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BellaBlades said:
Dont use windex. Honestly CRK grease never made the lock stick or affected lock up for the most part for me. But I'd use alcohol if you need to clean it.
Well the guys at CRK say they use windex to clean almost all the parts on the knife, either that or lacquer thinner. But I didn’t use windex or alcohol on the lockface on that I just wiped down, I’m pretty certain it’s earlier lock because I oriented the stop pin different than before and the blade is just wearing on a newer side.

Why dont you adjust all the screws so they are threaded in all the way but not snug. Flick it open once or twice and then while it is still locked up crank the screws down.

If you have continued issues with this model
Grab an Inkosi. It's more user friendly imo.

I'm a subject of lock stick I have always experienced just a tiny bit of grab pretty much every crk I've ever owned. I'd say it's better to have a little bit of friction then none at all.
Click to expand...
 
lex2006 said:
I am curious if you clean the lock bar or blade with isopropyl , I sometimes had lock stick after cleaning with Iso,
now I just use dish soap and a toothbrush and it does not seem to cause lock stick after reassembly ?
Click to expand...
Yeah I’ve heard windex and lacquer thinner are good to use, if something is really stubborn rubbing alcohol might be good, but yeah I’m pretty sure that the reason why my lockup is earlier is because I oriented the stop pin sleeve in a new position so the blade is wearing against a new surface causing a different lockup’s
 
Tony636 said:
Yeah I’ve heard windex and lacquer thinner are good to use, if something is really stubborn rubbing alcohol might be good, but yeah I’m pretty sure that the reason why my lockup is earlier is because I oriented the stop pin sleeve in a new position so the blade is wearing against a new surface causing a different lockup’s
Click to expand...


Don't believe that for a second, the orientation of the stop pin sleeve doesn't affect the lock up at all. It's hard to believe that it will form a mating area that affects the lock up.
I've never worried about getting the stop pin sleeve in the exact same position anytime I've cleaned/took apart a 21. Now, what I've seen is that the stop pin sleeve and pivot bushing are similar in size and folks have switched them before unknowingly, and that has caused issues.
 
Ajack60 said:
Don't believe that for a second, the orientation of the stop pin sleeve doesn't affect the lock up at all. It's hard to believe that it will form a mating area that affects the lock up.
I've never worried about getting the stop pin sleeve in the exact same position anytime I've cleaned/took apart a 21. Now, what I've seen is that the stop pin sleeve and pivot bushing are similar in size and folks have switched them before unknowingly, and that has caused issues.
Click to expand...
Ah interesting, that’s what some of the admins have said is that when they’ve taken apart a Sebenza and the stop pin isn’t in the same position it can make your lockup early, but yeah I’ve heard people switching the pivot bushing with the stop pin bushing but I did not do that. I am just hoping with this earlier lock up there is no danger, there shouldn’t be since it feels very rock solid. It’s at about 40% and I figure after a few months it will wear in
 
Tony636 said:
It had lock stick new out of box and then when I had it back together it had no lock stick and was earlier lock but now the stick is coming back, it’s not bad stick at all
Click to expand...

I’d say light lock stick is a good thing as it means there is some friction between the blade and titanium which is more safe IMO. It’s One of the reasons titanium was used for the lock in the first place. If there is a loud pop or it’s difficult to disengage then that would need to be fixed by CRK. Even my Umnumzaan with the ceramic ball has light stick. You wouldn’t want the lock surfaces to be slippery.
 
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