Sebenza 25

I

Ian Minton

Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
47
Quick question gang...

I got a new Sebenza 25 and it's really super stiff. Anybody have a similar experience? Will it loosen up after time?

I've broken it down and lubed it up and reassembled it but that didn't help.

Any advice would be helpful! Thanks in advanced fellow Sebenza lovers!
 
Since there is no bushing like the 21, you need to set the proper tension between no blade play and still nice and smooth. Because it is new, I would open/close it a few hundred times and then loosen the pivot in very small increments until you hit the sweet spot.
 
Thanks for the advice:)

The pivot is so loose that I can move it with my fingers. There is absolutely no blade play or looseness in the Ti Slabs and the action is just TIGHT tight tight!
 
Is the action tight if you hold the lockbar over and away from the blade? The lockbar puts pressure on the blade and can make it feel tight.
 
Yeah the 25 is much stiffer than the 21s.

I've opened mine constantly and noticed it SLOWLY getting smoother, it just takes time.
My thumb got very sore... unlike my 21s.
 
Another reason I asked if it was tight when holding the lockbar over is because on the 25 and the Zaan, the detent ball is a bit larger and needs time to wear it's track on the tang. Without the track worn, that can add friction and make it grab the tang. I bet if you hold it to your ear when operating the blade, you may hear an almost "gritty" sound. I think that is the ball wearing its track. Once it gets there, everything should smooth out.

I just went through something similar on my Zaan. I couldn't get the blade centered without tightening the pivot excessively. After a week of playing with it, the gritty sound went away and I was able to tighten the pivot until the blade is dead center and smooth. And no, cleaning it did not make the sound go away. Believe me, I tried. It just took time.
 
The first time I disassembled my 25, I noticed that with the pivot screw out, the blade was still perfectly centered and didn't have any play what so ever. Upon putting the knife back together, I installed the stop pin screw and the back stand off screw snug. Then I installed the pivot screw just barely tight. Operated the knife and it was smoother. I then tightened the stop pin and back stand off screws only enough for me to feel that they would not loosen with use. Then I adjusted the pivot to my liking.
IMO, if you tighten the stop pin screw too tight, it will effect the smoothness of the knife.
It still is tighter than most of my 21's, but a whole lot smoother than before. It will get better over time. Some things should not be rushed.
 
My first 25 was too tight for my liking even after all relevant adjustments mentioned above, but I didn't give it a chance to break in. In it's case, it was more of a stiff detent than pivot action that I didn't like. I sold it fairly quickly. Several months ago I bought a used 25 and it is utter perfection. Detent is secure but not overly easy to "break" - it will thumb flick better than any CRK I've ever tried (no I don't actually use that method, but have tried it to see if it was "do-able"). I picked up a Micarta 25 recently and it is about half way between the other two, and I haven't touched it with an allen wrench.

In the end, put me in the camp of agreeing about the 25 needing significantly more break-in than earlier Sebbie's to achieve a sweet spot, but once accomplished, it will be superglued to you pocket.
 
All great advice... I think what's happening has to do with the stop pin.

That stop pin isn't secure, and that movement can cause the lock face (or a portion of it) to rub against the stop pin during open and close. So I keep taking down the knife and re adjusting it. Then I tighten down the stop pin screws tight.

Those stop pin screws being locked down tight is what's causing the blade to be so snug, not the pivot area... It would stand to reason that it's the stop pin area I need to get under control.

Can I locktite the stop pin down? (I shouldn't have to, this is a CRK flaw) and if so, exactly what position should the flat side be in... This is annoying and disappointing...
 
I hadn't thought of that, but it does seem possible with the interference-fit stop pin design. Perhaps a call to CRK on Monday is in order?
 
If your stop pin is interference fit, using Loctite may not make a difference. If it has the screws on both ends then yes, Loctite it (purple Loctite) to keep the pin in the correct orientation - the cutout oriented so the tang clears the pin when it is closed. Just use Loctite on one screw, the one you don't normally take off when you disassemble the knife.
 
Good advice Don M.

I poorly chose my words when I said "interference-fit" as the early 25's did include permanently interference fit stop pins. What I meant to say is a notched-for-clearance stop pin design, screw affixed or otherwise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top