Sebenza and Edge Pro/Sharpmaker

krazichinaman

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MODS: Figured this was a specific question regarding the Sebenza, so hopefully its in the right spot.:p

According to CRK we should be able to touch up the Sebenza on the Sharpmaker. However, my new 21 and my regular could not be touched up. The factory angle was too great and I was not able to reach the edge at the 40 setting.(I would prefer to touch up the edge at the 30 setting). The sharpie trick showed that the bevel was being touched up and not the edge.

As some of you already know, I have an edge pro and thinned out my small regular sebenza(Was the 2nd knife to ever go on the Edge pro :foot:). I had the edge pro set on the red setting (15 per side) and just went to town......My end results allowed me to touch up the edge on the 30 setting of the sharpmaker with ease!:o

Raw results.:eek::barf::(
20090429163939.jpg

Then It was cleaned up and finished off.
DSC00561.jpg

DSC00827.jpg


I don't really want to thin out my new small 21 in the same fasion. However, I want to be able to touch up the edge on the sharpmaker. My only issue is when it comes close to the tip, I have much metal to remove and I don't want to have the same results as the regular sebenza. If you take a closer look, you can notice that there is a lot of metal removed from the tip. I remember reading some of us had the same issue.

For those that use the Edge Pro / Sharpmaker method, how did you reprofile your edge and were you able to reprofile and still have your tip stay pretty much factory thickness? If so, what were your settings?

I was _ close to going full blown at it again with the Edge Pro and the 21....took the polishing tapes to it to see if the 15/18/21 settings would work, but with all settings, I would have to remove lots of metal from the tip. (Sharpie trick works wonders here).

I am definately not happy with the factory edge but I am not wanting to go at it again blindly. :thumbup:
 
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Your edge looks a lot thinner then 30. How did you position your blade on the Edge Pro? I have one as well and find it pretty difficult to keep the blade in consistent position, especially blades with a rounded spine and a very small flat area near the spine. When you put too much pressure on the stone, the blade will tilt downwards, and thus decreasing the angle. Perhaps you're better of with the sharpmaker and just take your time with the brown stones on the 30 degr. slots. It might take you a couple of hours (!) though to get a decent back bevel. (20 or 40 strikes on each side will not get you there!)
 
And, perhaps check your angle with a 'geodriekhoek' (set square or T-square) I think it's called in the US.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Set_square

Also, when you only have a thin portion of the edge leaning over the base, a couple of degrees are already taken from the edge because of the thickness of the spine and the thinner area near the edge. So, going with a 15 degr setting, will result in a 12-13 degr edge.
 
The new 21 isn't what I consider sharp. It can shave hair, but not whittle. As I mentioned earlier, the bevels wont allow for touchup on the sharpmaker.

The Small Regular can whittle hair after the sharpmaker.:thumbup: The goal is to get the 21 to beable to whittle hair after the sharpmaker, however, I need to beable to thin out the edge enough, but leave enough "meat" on the tip.
 
You can do this with an edgepro.

I did this a couple years ago. I can't remember what setting but I am sure you could touch it up on an edgemaker or just a ceramic stick or something.

I don't use the edgepro anymore though. To much of a pain in the neck.

sorry for the crappy pic with all the reflection. Long day at work...tired...

KEV_8425.jpg


I think the main issues have already been pointed out. Flat on the stand and all of that.

Good luck.
 
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