Sebenza Lock-up

Following on from an earlier entry '' SEBENZA LOCK NO LONGER VAULT LIKE'' I would be interested to hear peoples comments on the lock up on their Sebezas, I have two large models, one i have used on and off for a couple of years, the blade lock up has gone from 70% to 90% travel. My second sebenza which has never been used already has the lock bar touching the farside handle plate, don't get me wrong the blade lock up on both knives is rock solid, but i was just wondering how ther could be so much variation on knives that are manufactured on CNC machinery to such high tolerances and how this will affect the knives performance in years to come. STILL LOVE THE KNIVES THOUGH!
 
W

Walt Welch

Joined
Oct 7, 1998
Messages
1,838
Hmmm... I thought that your Seb was anomalous. I just examined the dozen or so that I have, none of which has seen significant wear, and have reached the opposite conclusion. The frame lock engages at least half, and sometimes as much as 3/4 of the tang. Squeezing the knives will shift the lock over further, sometimes very near the opposite frame slab. Of interest is that the Gold Coin Sebs seem to engage the tang the most.

I was unaware of this, but believe it to be normal operation; however, you describe the frame lock actually touching the opposite frame slab. Unless the knife were opened very forcefully or squeezed after opening, I am not sure this is normal.

Walt
 
Is it possible to obtain a stop pin sleeve with a slightly thicker walls to decrease the travel on the lock bar? Or is this to simplistic an answer!
confused.gif

 
dcv69, you asked for comments regarding Sebenza lock up. I've had my large plain Sebenza less than a month. I decided to clean it the other day. Before cleaning, the lock bar was at app. 75%. After cleaning, it went to app. 50%. I've rotated the sleeve around the stop pin with no effect.

Isn't rotating the sleeve supposed to have an effect? It looks to be the same thickness all the way around.

For the life of me I don't see why my lock bar travel changed. I took it apart and put it back together 3 or 4 times. Each time the travel was about the same, somewhere around 50%.

BTW, I used Anne Reeve's instructions at:

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum29/HTML/000044.html

Posted 11/12/99 08:45am:

"I gave this one to Chris and here is his reply: The handle must be assembled first and both screws tightend. Just comfortably tight (this applied to all the screws!). The blade assembly (blade, pivot and 2 bronze washers) is then inserted between the handle
slabs. If it will not go in, you do not have it assembled correctly. Do not loosen the handle screws off. Once the blade assembly is in the handles, line up the pivot hole and insert the pin. The allen wrench can
help you line this up. Tighten the screw into the pin. Flick the knife open once and you are ready to go. This is the only time flicking is advised!

Anne"

BTW, I didn't "flick" the knife each time I reassembled it. It didn't seem to help & I didn't want to accidentally void my warranty. I mean no sarcasm by that...

[This message has been edited by L. O. Little (edited 01-23-2001).]
 
I carry and use my small seb daily, and dissassemble and clean it about every other week. The lock engages 50% of the tang, and hasn't changed since I bought it (secondhand). Considering the thickness of the ti, I would not be overly concerned if the lock bar did touch the other side. That would be 100% contact between the lock bar and the tang, which would still be rock solid and safe. Great design.
 
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