Sebenza lockup trick!?

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Dec 7, 2016
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Not saying it's good, not saying it's bad. Asking the opinion of someone who will have a better idea.


I'm of the mind if it's not broke don't fix it. I wonder if it would work on other knives. Like for example say your knife's lockbar went all the way over and you don't want to send it in yet but want to squeeze some extra life out of it. Or maybe it could be used to defeat lockslip.

I worry it would be putting undue stress on the screws. Or even worse someone could use it to sell a knife claiming it has earlier lockup than it does.
 
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I am curious about this. I will be taking a look at my large 21.
 
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Essentially, all he is doing is temporarily moving the lockbar further up towards the pivot. Once the screws loosen up during use, the lockbar will remain the same as before. Pending tolerance, this can work on many other knives.

A better way to combat lockup problems on a Seb is to rotate the stop pin sleeve. This does the opposite of what the video shows and will last longer.
 
Not sure why he can't figure out what he has done there.

He's introduced a small longitudinal offset in the two frames. The locking frame is now "higher" longitudinally than the presentation frame. Since the blade lockface slopes "down" and away from the lockbar, a "higher" lockbar is effectively an "earlier" lockbar. The geometry at work here is pretty obvious.

As for how effective it would be, I would really have to do some gross speculating. He's taking advantage of the small movement available longitudinally that is not designed to be there but has to be because you just can't machine something perfectly. The screws he is using to tighten up the frames are most effective perpendicular to the longitude of the knife and are not designed to stop longitudinal movement.

tl;dr: my guess is that this will work for a bit but that the lock will seem to "wear" faster than before as the frame slides back into alignment.
 
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Essentially, all he is doing is temporarily moving the lockbar further up towards the pivot. Once the screws loosen up during use, the lockbar will remain the same as before. Pending tolerance, this can work on many other knives.

A better way to combat lockup problems on a Seb is to rotate the stop pin sleeve. This does the opposite of what the video shows and will last longer.

I have heard about this rotating the stop pin sleeve. However I was under the impression the sleeve was symetrical.

Also by rotate it do you mean flip the side that is on the lockbar side to the other side?
 
The guy in the video is dead wrong about the Sebenza having "earlier" lockup in the past. I've been using them for over 20 years, and first got one in the days that Chris Reeve was putting a P for Production. I still have that one and the lockbar position was the same as the Large 21 he handles at the start of the video.
 
Silly temporary tricks that do nothing but put unwanted stress in other areas of the fitment. It'll go straight back to normal position after a few bumps or hard openings. Also this is potentially causing wear and tear in other places which is not what you want at all. People need to stop obsessing over early lockup, it's a make believe thing that only serves you the purpose of losing a finger easier. When people buy CRK they get their full invested moneys worth with the lifetime re-furb from the shop, so who cares about the lockup, just use it i say. If my 21 ever hits 100% im just going to continue using it since im not sending my knife overseas for months just to reset the lockup, 100% lockup wont make it any less secure and wont stop it from cutting. Our OCD is the only thing that it hurts :)
 
Those are all points pretty much in line with what I figured. I would have guesses you don't want the screws holding the knife together in a way other than intended.

To be honest the excessively early lockup thing bothers me. I was almost going to buy a Spartan Harsey instead of my Large 21 but the lockup was so early it scared me.
 
The QC at CRK is to check for lockup between 50 and 75% so his seems within spec. Even later probably isn't an issue. I don't know what problem we are trying to fix. If it ever moves too much and you get any blade play or lock rock just send it in.
 
Do some searching here. Davis had a sudden love affair with CRK knives, then fell very violently out of love with a lot of criticism. Just about everything he's said was nonsense and has been discredited.
 
This trick only works temporarily. The knife will settle in to where it wants to be after a couple openings. I do find you can sometimes change the lockup depth on an older CRK by rotating the stop pin sleeve, as over the years they can develop a little flat spot.

This whole pushing hard on the knife to torque the whole assembly one way or the other during assembly is not a permanent fix if you have a true problem. Personally, I like and look for deep lockup from all of my CRKs. I want it over 50%. I don't find they move over by very much even with daily use. The heat treatment of the lockbar is typically done extremely well on a Sebenza 21.
 
Do some searching here. Davis had a sudden love affair with CRK knives, then fell very violently out of love with a lot of criticism. Just about everything he's said was nonsense and has been discredited.

This right here..
JDavis, Crimson Tide Shooter..something like that should give you a good reference point.
 
This right here..
JDavis, Crimson Tide Shooter..something like that should give you a good reference point.


Those search strings return no results when searching for posts by the mentioned usernames. Inquiring minds would like more pointers. Thanks.
 
JDavis, crimsontideshooter, has some serious problems, spews a lot of lies and "logical" crap. However he sounds so rational and he really believes in himself, it's insidious and a lot of people believed him and still do. He flamed out on something and was asked to stay away from CRK subforum.

If he said the sun was going to rise tomorrow...I'd check to make sure :)
 
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