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- Mar 19, 2002
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This thread is to inform about the takedown and reassembly of the Sebenza using the "sandwich" method. This method is meant to reduce the likelihood of pinched washers and is my preferred method.
Materials and area needed;
It's somewhat important to have a flat surface free of clutter to keep from losing components. While it's not the end of the world to lose a component, it may cost time and money to replace them. Some pieces, if lost, require that the knife be sent in to Chris Reeve Knives for replacement. i.e. Washers
Materials
These are the materials that I use- Feel free to modify as you see fit with what you have at your disposal.
1) Lube- usually provided by CRK. This is what I use and recommend. There are other products out there, but that is not what this tutorial is about.
2) 5/64 hex wrench- usually provide by CRK. A 2mm can be used in a pinch, but it's a bit tight in the fastener.
3) Lint free cloth- usually provided by CRK.
4) Cotton tipped swabs- This is what I use to clean between the scales when they are still semi-assembled. Air compressor also works if you have it.
5) Paper towel for cleaning or providing contrast between the individual parts. Makes them a bit harder to lose. Again- feel free not to use this. This is my method.
Let's get started!
In the tutorial below, the instructions will be followed by the pic they are referring to.
Loosen up the pivot fastener with the 5/64 hex wrench, and push the female side through the scale. We are trying to mostly keep the knife together at this point. Wrench is inserted into an adjacent hex, but you will be removing the pivot fastener.
You can see in the following picture, that I have left the two fasteners on the right, but removed the pivot fastener completely.
I use the 5/64 hex wrench to push the female fastener out of the scale using the long end of the hex wrench. Be careful and take your time. Sometimes, you may have to put slight pressure on the lockbar to relieve some tension on the blade-pivot assembly.
In the following picture, I have removed the blade-pivot assembly. If you are a righty, you can do this by grasping the blade by the thumbstud in your left hand and apply slight pressure to the lockbar with your right thumb and pull the whole assembly free of the scales. If you find resistance, the remaining fasteners need to be loosened just a little to allow the assembly to move freely. (be careful, the blade edge is likely sharp. If you are nervous about this, put some painters tape over the cutting edge of the blade before removal)
Note the position of the individual pieces in the assembly that you have pulled free of the scales. We will need to put them back in this order to replace them back into the scales. In the above pic, you will note that the large washer is on the opposite side of the lockbar. At this stage, you can pull the pieces apart and clean them. I usually just wipe everything down good with the lint free cloth. A light degreaser such as WD-40 also works to clean. Just make sure you wipe off as much as possible before reassembly. (avoid mixing any oils/greases that you may use)
Here, the components are clean and ready to be reassembled.
Applying some of the lube that was provide by CRK. Use this sparingly as it doesn't take much. The amount in the pic is probably a little much, but good for a visual on where I apply. The same goes for the following pic. The worst that happens is that it will be forced out of the pivot assembly when everything is tightened up.
Applying some lube to the pivot hole in the blade.
Pivot bushing inserted along with a little lube applied to the opposite side of the blade. Again, there is going to be variation.. You may choose to apply lube to the washers or the blade. Use what works best for you.
Putting the "sandwich" back together, remembering the order in which they came out. Here, I am trying not to touch the lube too much..but it happens. Not a big deal. Especially when I am trying to operate a camera and hold these items for clarity at the same time.
Sliding the cleaned and lubed blade-pivot assembly back into the scale assembly. This is just the reverse of how you removed them. Try to align the pivot hole the best you can and you will likely have to put a little pressure on the lockbar just to get it in the right spot to insert the fastener.
Female pivot fastener inserted from the opposite side and centered up. It will take some patience. The fastener is a nice slip fit into the scales. Once it starts through the blade-pivot assembly, it generally just goes through both scales with little effort. Again, putting light pressure on the lockbar helps while moving the blade-pivot assembly around just a little. It takes two hands despite the pic.
Almost done.
Start tightening down the fasteners a little at a time until snug, including the pivot fastener. Don't put undue pressure on them. Snug means until you meet resistance and nothing more. At this point, you can open and close the blade noting any resistance that was not there before. If all seems well, go ahead and tighten the fasteners just a bit. Open and close the blade again. At this point, you should see that it opens smooth. Make sure there is no lube on the lockbar face. If there is, use a bit of alcohol to clean it off. Open and close the knife. I have heard that some recommend a 1x wrist flick to seat the blade. Do this if you wish, I have never found a need.
The blade should be centered within reason when closed and very little to no resistance when you open.
If there is an issue, stop and take the blade-pivot assembly out again. If done right, you should not have pinched a washer or created any condition that wasn't there before you started.
That should be it.
If there are any modifications or additions, I can add them to the original post.
Before I sticky this, we will let the community look and see if editing needs to be done before I drop the other sticky.
More tutorials to follow as I get some time.
Materials and area needed;
It's somewhat important to have a flat surface free of clutter to keep from losing components. While it's not the end of the world to lose a component, it may cost time and money to replace them. Some pieces, if lost, require that the knife be sent in to Chris Reeve Knives for replacement. i.e. Washers
Materials
These are the materials that I use- Feel free to modify as you see fit with what you have at your disposal.
1) Lube- usually provided by CRK. This is what I use and recommend. There are other products out there, but that is not what this tutorial is about.
2) 5/64 hex wrench- usually provide by CRK. A 2mm can be used in a pinch, but it's a bit tight in the fastener.
3) Lint free cloth- usually provided by CRK.
4) Cotton tipped swabs- This is what I use to clean between the scales when they are still semi-assembled. Air compressor also works if you have it.
5) Paper towel for cleaning or providing contrast between the individual parts. Makes them a bit harder to lose. Again- feel free not to use this. This is my method.
Let's get started!
In the tutorial below, the instructions will be followed by the pic they are referring to.
Loosen up the pivot fastener with the 5/64 hex wrench, and push the female side through the scale. We are trying to mostly keep the knife together at this point. Wrench is inserted into an adjacent hex, but you will be removing the pivot fastener.
You can see in the following picture, that I have left the two fasteners on the right, but removed the pivot fastener completely.
I use the 5/64 hex wrench to push the female fastener out of the scale using the long end of the hex wrench. Be careful and take your time. Sometimes, you may have to put slight pressure on the lockbar to relieve some tension on the blade-pivot assembly.
In the following picture, I have removed the blade-pivot assembly. If you are a righty, you can do this by grasping the blade by the thumbstud in your left hand and apply slight pressure to the lockbar with your right thumb and pull the whole assembly free of the scales. If you find resistance, the remaining fasteners need to be loosened just a little to allow the assembly to move freely. (be careful, the blade edge is likely sharp. If you are nervous about this, put some painters tape over the cutting edge of the blade before removal)
Note the position of the individual pieces in the assembly that you have pulled free of the scales. We will need to put them back in this order to replace them back into the scales. In the above pic, you will note that the large washer is on the opposite side of the lockbar. At this stage, you can pull the pieces apart and clean them. I usually just wipe everything down good with the lint free cloth. A light degreaser such as WD-40 also works to clean. Just make sure you wipe off as much as possible before reassembly. (avoid mixing any oils/greases that you may use)
Here, the components are clean and ready to be reassembled.
Applying some of the lube that was provide by CRK. Use this sparingly as it doesn't take much. The amount in the pic is probably a little much, but good for a visual on where I apply. The same goes for the following pic. The worst that happens is that it will be forced out of the pivot assembly when everything is tightened up.
Applying some lube to the pivot hole in the blade.
Pivot bushing inserted along with a little lube applied to the opposite side of the blade. Again, there is going to be variation.. You may choose to apply lube to the washers or the blade. Use what works best for you.
Putting the "sandwich" back together, remembering the order in which they came out. Here, I am trying not to touch the lube too much..but it happens. Not a big deal. Especially when I am trying to operate a camera and hold these items for clarity at the same time.
Sliding the cleaned and lubed blade-pivot assembly back into the scale assembly. This is just the reverse of how you removed them. Try to align the pivot hole the best you can and you will likely have to put a little pressure on the lockbar just to get it in the right spot to insert the fastener.
Female pivot fastener inserted from the opposite side and centered up. It will take some patience. The fastener is a nice slip fit into the scales. Once it starts through the blade-pivot assembly, it generally just goes through both scales with little effort. Again, putting light pressure on the lockbar helps while moving the blade-pivot assembly around just a little. It takes two hands despite the pic.
Almost done.
Start tightening down the fasteners a little at a time until snug, including the pivot fastener. Don't put undue pressure on them. Snug means until you meet resistance and nothing more. At this point, you can open and close the blade noting any resistance that was not there before. If all seems well, go ahead and tighten the fasteners just a bit. Open and close the blade again. At this point, you should see that it opens smooth. Make sure there is no lube on the lockbar face. If there is, use a bit of alcohol to clean it off. Open and close the knife. I have heard that some recommend a 1x wrist flick to seat the blade. Do this if you wish, I have never found a need.
The blade should be centered within reason when closed and very little to no resistance when you open.
If there is an issue, stop and take the blade-pivot assembly out again. If done right, you should not have pinched a washer or created any condition that wasn't there before you started.
That should be it.
If there are any modifications or additions, I can add them to the original post.
Before I sticky this, we will let the community look and see if editing needs to be done before I drop the other sticky.
More tutorials to follow as I get some time.
Last edited:
