Sebenza pivot tension?

R

rev_jch

Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
3,228
Guys, have any of you ever had your new sebenzas come tight? The one classic 2000 I have. when I bought it a few years ago, it came pretty stiff. Ive never loosened it (as I don't carry it very often). But I was wondering. Without loosening the pivot. Have you ever found it takes a while for it to loosen?

Thanks
John
 
the pivot never has to be loosened (keep it tight). the knife will naturally loosen up with use. it does not take much time at all.
 
It took just a few weeks of using my Small 21 Sebenza to break it in, but yes it was a little stiff when I first got it.

Now though after a few months it has reached the storied "butter smooth" opening and is much easier to open. The best thing to do to a Sebenza is use it.
 
They wear in with use, or you could always open it up, sand the inside of the ti at the pivot area with some very fine grit paper, clean and relube the knife to accelerate the process. Either way...
 
They are always slightly stiff when new. It will loosen up with use as the bronze bushing break in. You could always take it apart and put some CRK lube, but CRK does that anyways, so just use it. It will loosen up in a week or two depending on how often you use it.
 
RobME said:
They wear in with use, or you could always open it up, sand the inside of the ti at the pivot area with some very fine grit paper, clean and relube the knife to accelerate the process. Either way...
Click to expand...

Whatever you do, don't sand the titanium scale at the pivot as suggested above. There is no need for this area to be smoother or sanded as where the scale contacts the bronze washer, there is no movement or travel. The knife pivots open and shut by sliding the tang (blade) of the knife across the other side of that washer. There is no movement between the scale and washer whatsoever. (over) Sanding the scale here may cause washer, centering, tightness, wear or other issues.

Just fiddle with it all day, opening and closing. It'll loosen and smoooooth up in no time like everyone else's. I agree, the wait can be a nuisance if you're impatient but it'll get there. :)
 
fionafa said:
Whatever you do, don't sand the titanium scale at the pivot as suggested above. There is no need for this area to be smoother or sanded as where the scale contacts the bronze washer, there is no movement or travel. The knife pivots open and shut by sliding the tang (blade) of the knife across the other side of that washer. There is no movement between the scale and washer whatsoever. (over) Sanding the scale here may cause washer, centering, tightness, wear or other issues.

Just fiddle with it all day, opening and closing. It'll loosen and smoooooth up in no time like everyone else's. I agree, the wait can be a nuisance if you're impatient but it'll get there. :)
Click to expand...

C Ben Susrool said:
+1 :thumbup: On "Don't sand the Ti."
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I agree 1000% NO SANDING. This will definately ruin your knife. The bushings do not move, your blade does. The bronze bushings are stationary. They are all stiff when new, just use it. Sit on the couch, watch a movie and open and close it a hundred times or so. But.....NO SANDING !
 
nyefmaker said:
I agree 1000% NO SANDING. This will definately ruin your knife. The bushings do not move, your blade does. The bronze bushings are stationary. They are all stiff when new, just use it. Sit on the couch, watch a movie and open and close it a hundred times or so. But.....NO SANDING !
Click to expand...

that's a bingo on the no sanding :thumbup:

the washers are supposed to bite into the rough titanium and remain stationary--the blade slides over the bronze.

the corollary to this is: only lube the washers on the blade-side.
 
ExMachina said:
that's a bingo on the no sanding :thumbup:

the washers are supposed to bite into the rough titanium and remain stationary--the blade slides over the bronze.

the corollary to this is: only lube the washers on the blade-side.
Click to expand...

SO Very True !
 
Thanks guys. No, I would not sand the handles. It would definitely cause other issues. I was just curious about it breaking on. Ive had it a few years and it has yet to loose up. I''l just let itself "wear in" on it's own.

Thanks again!
 
If it's been that long, I'd pop the blade out, clean the gunk off the tang and washers, add a drop of lube to each side and the bearing, and pop it back in. Tighten it down a wee bit and it'll be much better. No point waiting any longer for that buttery smooth sebenza feeling. Grab the allan key and treat yourself tonight!! :)
 
I can always tell when my large regular sebbie needs to be taken down and cleaned. When I clean it up and lube the pivot, it opens like an automatic. I noticed the last day or so that its getting a little tighter and harder to open. I always notice it happens after I wash it. I as using it cut of veggies and rinced it thoroughly last week. Now I notice it is a little tight. On mine, I get a little oxidation in the tang area, ( None in the bushing area ). It is hardly noticable, but I can see it when looking very closely. It just shows up as some dark spots. When I take it apart, I very lightly go over it with 0000 steel wool, then its gone. The 0000 steel wool will not harm any tolerances, so I feel its the best thing to use. Even fine scotchbrite is way to heavy as far as I am concerned. After a thorough cleaning, its better than new. I find myself doing this about once a month or so. If I wash the sebbie, more often maybe...............Even though you dont use yours alot, maybe thats just all it needs is a little TLC. Its amazing how gummy pocket lint is and how it will gum everything up. After a thorough cleaning, let us know how it is !!!

I just took it apart and cleaned it. Now its alot smoother, there was alot of pocket lint in the lock area and near the bronze bushings. All better now :D
 
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#600 grit equivalent or higher, (#1000 probably better), will do no harm... change no tolerances, or have any adverse effects. To the contrary this is good surface prep. Smoother surfaces where you have metal-to-metal contact will only help.

The stiffness (drag), is caused by small (microscopic) surface imperfections, (or dried oils or other debris) where you have metal to metal contact. The break-in action of many opening and closing cycles on some new folding knives evens out those small surface imperfections, because the different surfaces are in essense, 'sanding' each other, and the friction of metal to metal contact is lessened (even so with lubrication). Knife break-in can be accelerated, but I won't ever bring this up again here on this forum.

It's all about minimizing friction between moving parts where there's metal-to-metal surface contact. When you minimize the friction, you enable freer movement. When the knife breaks in, it's because the friction between mating surfaces is minimized.

I mentioned 'sanding' earlier. :foot: I wasn't very specific (my bad). So y'all jumped on me... thought I was giving direction that would ruin the knife. Lol, very funny how so many were quick to agree. We all make assumptions. I'm guilty too. I thought what I posted wouldn't be misinterpreted. For the record... My comment wasn't qualified, and I would've been better off not posting anything rather than bad instruction. I meant only polishing smooth the surfaces - not removing material... and (though I mistakenly didn't post this)... for myself I polish not only the pivot hole area of the blade, but the washers on both sides and the interior frame, and should've included this in my earlier post.

Pls don't tell me I'm ruining my knife (I'm not). Don't tell me how the washers are 'frozen' and only the blade moves - that's only theoretically true. Nine and a half, out of ten of you wouldn't know your way around a toolroom (though you talk a good game).

This is all said with the greatest respect. :D

Lastly, I apologize to many of you experts. I promise I won't be volunteering any future 'advice'. :) :cool:
 
fionafa said:
If it's been that long, I'd pop the blade out, clean the gunk off the tang and washers, add a drop of lube to each side and the bearing, and pop it back in. Tighten it down a wee bit and it'll be much better. No point waiting any longer for that buttery smooth sebenza feeling. Grab the allan key and treat yourself tonight!! :)
Click to expand...

That's all it takes..
 
Guys, we all have experience, opinions, thoights, etc. and that's fine.

I have only carried mine about 6 times since I bought it. I think it probably needs to be used some more :)
 
RobME said:
#600 grit equivalent or higher, (#1000 probably better), will do no harm... change no tolerances, or have any adverse effects. To the contrary this is good surface prep. Smoother surfaces where you have metal-to-metal contact will only help.

The stiffness (drag), is caused by small (microscopic) surface imperfections, (or dried oils or other debris) where you have metal to metal contact. The break-in action of many opening and closing cycles on some new folding knives evens out those small surface imperfections, because the different surfaces are in essense, 'sanding' each other, and the friction of metal to metal contact is lessened (even so with lubrication). Knife break-in can be accelerated, but I won't ever bring this up again here on this forum.

It's all about minimizing friction between moving parts where there's metal-to-metal surface contact. When you minimize the friction, you enable freer movement. When the knife breaks in, it's because the friction between mating surfaces is minimized.

I mentioned 'sanding' earlier. :foot: I wasn't very specific (my bad). So y'all jumped on me... thought I was giving direction that would ruin the knife. Lol, very funny how so many were quick to agree. We all make assumptions. I'm guilty too. I thought what I posted wouldn't be misinterpreted. For the record... My comment wasn't qualified, and I would've been better off not posting anything rather than bad instruction. I meant only polishing smooth the surfaces - not removing material... and (though I mistakenly didn't post this)... for myself I polish not only the pivot hole area of the blade, but the washers on both sides and the interior frame, and should've included this in my earlier post.

Pls don't tell me I'm ruining my knife (I'm not). Don't tell me how the washers are 'frozen' and only the blade moves - that's only theoretically true. Nine and a half, out of ten of you wouldn't know your way around a toolroom (though you talk a good game).

This is all said with the greatest respect. :D

Lastly, I apologize to many of you experts. I promise I won't be volunteering any future 'advice'. :) :cool:
Click to expand...
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
I have had this small Sebenza for 3 months, Its a plain jane with double thumb lugs. It was NIB when I got it. Since day one it has been stiff on opening and very notchey on opening slow. I took it apart the first day and found that it had left the factory "BONE DRY" no grease or oil what so ever on the pivot and washers. I used CRK grease on it and put it back together.
I sat in my recliner every night for a week and opened it and closed it about 250 times a night. It improved a little, But all of my other 6 large Sebenza's that 5 are still NIB are way smoother. I took it apart again to recheck it and found no problem. This time I used some of my gun oil (FP-10) instead of CRK grease and there was a "LITTLE" improvement. I have been working it every night in my recliner since I got It. Finally monday afternoon I took it apart again. Everything looked fine on first inspection, After looking closer I found the inside of the brass washers were not mating smoothly with the blade surface. They almost appeared to be a little warped on the inside of the washer that was contacting the blade. I took some 600 grit sand paper and polished only the inside of the washer by having it on my middle finger and rubbing it on the sand paper on the kitchen table with a straight back and forth movement. The washers inside surface was warped and I was able to make it perfect in a very short amount of time. I reassembled it using FP-10 gun oil and its like a new knife, Open and closes like butter. You can now hold the lock bar in and the blade will just dangle back and forth when you shake your hand. Im not saying this is a recommended repair but it sure worked for me. I've polished parts in my auto knives and guns for years so I figured what do I have to lose, The cost of a pair of CRK washers.............

:D:D:D Rickster :D:D:D
 
RobME said:
#600 grit equivalent or higher, (#1000 probably better), will do no harm... change no tolerances, or have any adverse effects. To the contrary this is good surface prep. Smoother surfaces where you have metal-to-metal contact will only help.

The stiffness (drag), is caused by small (microscopic) surface imperfections, (or dried oils or other debris) where you have metal to metal contact. The break-in action of many opening and closing cycles on some new folding knives evens out those small surface imperfections, because the different surfaces are in essense, 'sanding' each other, and the friction of metal to metal contact is lessened (even so with lubrication). Knife break-in can be accelerated, but I won't ever bring this up again here on this forum.

It's all about minimizing friction between moving parts where there's metal-to-metal surface contact. When you minimize the friction, you enable freer movement. When the knife breaks in, it's because the friction between mating surfaces is minimized.

I mentioned 'sanding' earlier. :foot: I wasn't very specific (my bad). So y'all jumped on me... thought I was giving direction that would ruin the knife. Lol, very funny how so many were quick to agree. We all make assumptions. I'm guilty too. I thought what I posted wouldn't be misinterpreted. For the record... My comment wasn't qualified, and I would've been better off not posting anything rather than bad instruction. I meant only polishing smooth the surfaces - not removing material... and (though I mistakenly didn't post this)... for myself I polish not only the pivot hole area of the blade, but the washers on both sides and the interior frame, and should've included this in my earlier post.

Pls don't tell me I'm ruining my knife (I'm not). Don't tell me how the washers are 'frozen' and only the blade moves - that's only theoretically true. Nine and a half, out of ten of you wouldn't know your way around a toolroom (though you talk a good game).

This is all said with the greatest respect. :D

Lastly, I apologize to many of you experts. I promise I won't be volunteering any future 'advice'. :) :cool:
Click to expand...

Relax man...its all good here. :)

I agree with your post...I have said in my posts that my knives are smooth as silk...theres a reason why !!....i take it a step or two farther but i polish the contact surfaces exept for the frames....i have never had a issue with exessive clearance or blade play...end results...a super smooth operating knife !!

I tell most folks with a tight operating knife to use some type of cleaner to clean out the factory grease and work the knife dry for a while before adding lube...this will aid in the break in.

There's a reason CRK ships them tight...actually i'm sure theres several reasons.

You gotta remember that not every one knows there way around tools and for that reason it's probably better that the knives are left stock....I would imagine that CRK see's some crazy damage done.

I have a good friend that has some health issues and his hands are weak...i just sent him a Zaan that i spent a couple weeks polishing the blade and handles and making the action super smooth while keeping a respectable detent....i talked with him after he had the knife for a couple days and he said it was smooth as a babies butt...we talked for weeks before i decided that the Zaan would be a good knife for his needs.
 
Guys we all have some kind of experience here, whether for the better or the worse.

Rob, I would not be offended if I was you. Everyone was only going on what you said. Misinterpreted, or not. You have to remember that "perception" is 90% of what is being said. Not necessarily the intent.

As far as knowing the way around tools. Personally, Ive been making knives for a good many years (much more than the age of most everyone on here). Yet, when I am not familar with something, I will ask. Hence my question about the sebenza breaking in.

pride can ba a nasty thing for any of us, myself inlcuded.

If I were you, I would think nothing of it. It's good we all share opinions and advice, it helps us all learn.
 
Thanks rev_jch and bigmark for your comments & understanding. I'm usually pretty laid back, and I like to be helpful and friendly (believe it or not). Yes, I admit my own fault in not elucidating my pov within an understandable context. I (can) get a little frustrated after a few beers... (no excuse :)) From now on, I'll endeavor to keep my ego out of my posts. Thanks again!
 
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