Sebenza Sharpener?

How or Who Sharpens Your Sebenza?

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Lenny

Lenny

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Oct 15, 1998
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Just wondering how/who sharpens your Sebenza.
I didn't list the Spyderco Sharpmaker because that system really can't bring a dull edge back to shaving sharp.
I only use the Sharpmaker for touch-ups if the edge is still pretty sharp.
Finally, what edge angle do you sharpen at?
 
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I don’t have a system, just a sharpmaker and strop but I’ll likely buy a WE-130 when I eventually get my head around the cost because I like the idea of putting a precise edge on mine. Not at all necessary, but very little in this hobby really is.
 
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Depends on how dull it is.
A strop and freehanding on a small ceramic rod for touch ups. If that's not doing the trick, the trusty sharpmaker, then finish on a strop. If it's particularly dulled, an Edge Pro. I normally only pull out the Edge Pro for my kitchen knives, but if it's already out, whatever knife is in my pocket will get a turn too.

I just picked up a Worksharp precision system to play around with. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to the Edge Pro.
 
I use a KME, sharpie the edge and try to keep it at the factory bevel. I hate to remove more metal than necessary because it cannot be put back on. If/when the need arises to go lower, I’ll do it in one degree increments.
 
Years of using Japanese kitchen knives in professional settings offered plenty of opportunity for practicing fee hand sharpening, and I have a decent set of water stones, but so far I've stuck to the Sharpmaker for my (2) CRKs. I like how little steel it removes from the edge. I feel that I'm preserving the factory profile for as long as possible and getting maximum longevity out of the blade. Yes it's frustratingly slow if the edge is pretty dull. The diamond rods can help to speed things up.
 
I use the wicked edge gen 3 pro. As far as angles, sebenzas like 20 dps. You can push 18 or 19 without having an overly broad bevel, but sometimes I hear people talking about 15 dps. That's extreme.
 
I got the work sharp ken onion elite with the blade grind attachment specifically for the convex edge geometry. I’ve used it so far only to strop and touch up. Haven’t used the more aggressive belts as they can and do take off a lot of metal if you’re not careful and even worse if you aren’t’ great at it you can mess things up pretty quickly. Practice practice practise.

Recently I also got the TSPROF K03 Pro and a few accessories including the convex edge attachment. I haven’t tried it yet but I think that is going to be a much better solution for keeping the edge clean taking off as little material as possible when it becomes time to truly sharpen it. I need to practice on some cheap blades first though.
 
I should add that most of my edge maintenancep is done on strops. More significant touch ups are on the WE, but I only do a couple of passes per side with a fine grit stone to bring back the apex.
 
I have CBN, standard, and ultra fine rods for the Sharpkeeper. Between that and a strop with 1 micron diamond paste, I’ve been able to keep things going, even with my bruiser tanto ‘Zaan.

If it ever went beyond that, I'd use a KME, because it’s what I’ve got.
 
Lenny said:
Just wondering how/who sharpens your Sebenza.
I didn't list the Spyderco Sharpmaker because that system really can't bring a dull edge back to shaving sharp.
I only use the Sharpmaker for touch-ups if the edge is still pretty sharp.
Finally, what edge angle do you sharpen at?
Click to expand...
Sharpmaker is what I use. You need to buy the diamond rods. I do 30 with a couplle of swipes on 40 at the end.
 
Sharpmaker. I have the diamond rods and the UF rods along with the medium and fine.
 
Sharpmaker here too! The BG 42 takes a bit longer, but otherwise no problems.
On the s30v @ 58 I do 15 dps and on the S35vn 20 dps. 20 on Thomas Damascus also.
 
My Large Sebenza 31 UG came from the factory with a convex bevel ranging from about 15 degrees where the bevel starts to 30 or 35 degrees at the apex, depending on where along the edge and which side I measure it. If I were going to use it--which I'm not--I would sharpen it with the TSProf because that's really good for reprofiling.
 
Freehand here too, I use Dia-Sharp and Spyderco bench stones.

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