Sebenza smoothnes varies?

pvicenzi

pvicenzi

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Dec 25, 2008
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I have 2 Sebenzas. A large 21 dog paws, and a small regular. The small is not nearly as smooth as the large 21. Do the unique graphics knives get extra attention, or is this just a coincidence?
 
I think the large sometimes feels moother because the leverage is differrent.

You can always dissaeble, clean, polish, etc. to make a seb smoother.
 
Since it is stiil smoother than most of my other knives, I'll take it the way it is. You might be right about the extra leverage making the large seem smoother. I was thinking the same thing, as the difference isn't that great.
 
I've noticed my small Seb isn't as smooth as my large, but it's getting there. They definitely seem to smooth up the more you use 'em.
 
All I own now IS smalls, and mine are all very smooth. I have Classics, a Regular & 2 21's. I DO think the 21's are smoother than the others though.
 
I had a large classic Micarta that was the smoothest knife I've ever owned, but my large regular I have now is nowhere near as smooth. I've cleaned it and polished it, but it just won't be like my old one was. It doesn't really bother me, but I do think there can be some variance.
 
My guess is that SLIGHT variances in thickness of pivot components makes a difference... I've owned around a dozen sebs, and 4-5 of them were users, 4 in heavy rotation. There were definitely differences... I prefer them a little less smooth. So... if the pivot bushing is slightly thicker than the blade and washers combined, the blade will open/close smoother... If they are equal or if the blade/washers are slightly thicker than the bushing, you will have more resistance "sandwiching" the components together. My new Mnandi is like the first example... The blade feels ALMOST loose... it is NICE, but I wish it would be a little tighter when the pivot screw is tight. If I wanted to change this (but I don't), all I would have to do is SLIGHTLY sand down the washers... IF I were gonna do this, I would use a SUPER fine stone... and GO SLOW!

Under NO circumstances would I do the opposite...making it "smoother" by sanding down the pivot bushing... IMO it would be REALLY difficult to get the work straight... you nay not end up with a perfectly flat outcome... I'd let CRK do this if that is what you want outta yer knife!
 
Depending on your definition of smooth..

The pressure of the lockbar on the blade tang makes a huge
difference on how tight the blade is opening and closing.

You can pull the lockbar outward slightly a few times without
hurting it and it makes a huge difference on "tightness".

-Ron
 
When it comes to knives, I use the term smooth in a fashion similar to the term "smooth trigger" used for firearms. To me, the force required to open a knife would be similar to the letoff in trigger terms. A trigger with a 6 pound letoff that is very smooth, can feel like it takes less force than a trigger with a 4 pound letoff that has a bit of grittiness. I know this is all very subjective, but that's how I think of it.
 
Code: 
You can pull the lockbar outward slightly a few times without
hurting it and it makes a huge difference on "tightness".
I have done what 440hard suggested. Sometimes the intregal lock bar is very strong (tight) but if you do bend it out make sure you do it very slightly and carefully. If you over bend it you will have major lock up problems and blade play.
 
I also find that my small sebbie is not quite as smooth as my large one. I pulled it apart and just wiped everything down with a tissue then applied some CRK grease before re assembly.

It made it better but not as good as the large one. It's certainly still very acceptable and probably better than most other knives so I won't do anything else to it except keep using it :D

Your sebbies are like your kids, they all have different personalities and characteristics, you love em all just the same :thumbup::thumbup:
 
If you want a Sebenza to be smoother, give the washers a quick swipe on a 10K strop. Just go a little at a time.
 
ROBB said:
Code: 
You can pull the lockbar outward slightly a few times without
hurting it and it makes a huge difference on "tightness".
I have done what 440hard suggested. Sometimes the intregal lock bar is very strong (tight) but if you do bend it out make sure you do it very slightly and carefully. If you over bend it you will have major lock up problems and blade play.
Click to expand...

I would just avoid sanding the washers if possible.
Just wipe off the tarnish periodically if needed.

When I got my large beater BG42 Seb it was locking at
about 75% and so darn tight it took 2 hands and a hammer
to unlock it. Not to mention very stiff opening.

I pulled the the locking bar outward about an 1/8" inch
several times until it was locking around 60% . This stopped
the jamming and has very smooth action with all bolts tight.
This was years ago and I have not had to adjust it since.

If you go to far and the blade seemes to "loose" just take the
thing apart and bend the bar inward and start the process over.

Around 60% is a good compromise if you like to thumb flick open a Seb.
(and close it one-handed). I have done this for many a friends' Seb.
Every Seb and owner have their own character so experiment a little.

(Chris Reeve approves of thumb flick opening with a stationary wrist.)

-Ron

sf1.jpg
 
tsiloics said:
If you want a Sebenza to be smoother, give the washers a quick swipe on a 10K strop. Just go a little at a time.
Click to expand...

That probably won't hurt them.

I just wipe them clean once in a while with an old t-shirt cloth
and some oil. They won't get that bad if you keep the knife
washed out clean and lubed up properly.

What do I know? I lube mine with mineral oil. Works great.
No doubt this knife will long out-last me.. :)
 
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