Second attempt at making a knife

AVigil

Adam Vigil working the grind
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Feb 17, 2009
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Phil Hartsfield was local and while he had many critics he also has many fans. He was always very nice and made a very sharp blade. I thought of him while I made this little guy.

RIP Phil

Made from 01 triple tempered chisel ground. I wrapped the handle with a base of yellow nylon cord and soaked with Gorilla crazy glue. The black wrap was soaked in a matte polyurethane. The blade is 3" sharp edge and 7" OAL.

Thanks

tantomini009.jpg


tantomini010.jpg


tantomini007.jpg


tantomini011.jpg
 
It is made from 3/16" thick and 1/2" wide.

Thanks Stacy.
 
I like it. Would you mind elaborating on how you soaked the wrap in polyurethane and how it feels as a result?

- Chris
 
The knife will be a user so the handle has to hold up. The yellow nylon cord is wrapped tight and soaked with superglue and left to dry rock hard.The black wrap finished off with a drop of super glue to lock it in. Use a lighter to singe off any stray hairs. I then soak the handle in denatured alcohol and tapped with a small hammer to compact it and then wrapped very tight with a nylon cord over it length and then compressed under a 35lbs weight and left until mostly dry. When dry remove the nylon cord and if the cord is a little damp that is good. I put it in a plastic bag and tap with a hammer to flatten and compress it some more. Then even when it is damp I apply a matte polyurethane finish with a sponge brush and since it is damp it will wick the finish up into the wrap. As it soaks in wait and then reapply until it is super saturated and can hold no more. Then dab of the excess and hang to dry.

When dry it still will be pliable and not rock hard or shiny.

Oh and I also put a drop of super glue where the black cord is first laid down to lock it in and will not move.
 
Thanks! I do a lot of cord wrapping and I'm always looking for new things to do with it.

- Chris
 
Neat. It is a little almost square bladed stabbing device.

Here is the problem I see with the design ( not knocking it...I like the look):
The main bevel appears to be a right triangle .185 on the height and .250 on the hypotenuse. That makes the bevel about 43 degrees...not a good cutting knife...but a good stabbing knife.... just too short to be effective.
 
It is a 30* grind ala Bubble Jig :D In fact I just went and measured it by protractor for you 30* on the nose

protractor002.jpg
 
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OK, I was guessing the bevel height as about half the blade width......1/4" ......from the photos. I used that to calculate the edge angle for 3/16 thickness. It is obviously a higher bevel if then angle is lower. Probably camera angle.
Using 30 degrees for the edge, and 3/16 for the thickness - I get a bevel height of .370", or roughly 3/4 of the blade width.

I was not knocking the knife, I like the look.
I just made two small Japanese utility blades similar to yours last weekend. Mine were 3/4 wide and 1/8 thick. The grind goes about 2/3 the way up the side, thus they have lower edge angle around 15 degrees. They have leather ito over rattlesnake skin. I'll try and post a photo tonight.
 
Stacy,

I know it was not critiscm, its just knife talk:D

Right now I am just trying out stuff to get my feet wet to give me some experience so I am just trying a few different things.

Please post that pict is sound pretty nice.
 
Hey man, that is pure awesome! It's not real easy to get everything so straight and lined up on these little japanese tantos. You did really good.

Check out some west system epoxy. Expensive, but it's so nice to work with.
 
Check out some west system epoxy. Expensive, but it's so nice to work with.

105 Resin with 207 Hardener (unless you like to work reaaaaaaaally slow then they have other hardeners like 205, 206 or even 209)

Try a 15 or 20 degree chisel grind with no secondary bevel :) you'll be amazed. Though...your stock width is not wide enough to do the grinds degrees mentioned unless you want to have no flats on a 1/2" wide - 3/16" stock thickness blade! 20 degrees will leave plenty of flats on a 3/4" blade and you'll need atleast 1" wide for a 15 degree chisel grind.
 
105 Resin with 207 Hardener (unless you like to work reaaaaaaaally slow then they have other hardeners like 205, 206 or even 209)

Try a 15 or 20 degree chisel grind with no secondary bevel :) you'll be amazed. Though...your stock width is not wide enough to do the grinds degrees mentioned unless you want to have no flats on a 1/2" wide - 3/16" stock thickness blade! 20 degrees will leave plenty of flats on a 3/4" blade and you'll need atleast 1" wide for a 15 degree chisel grind.

Now that is Good to know!

I really like your work Leu and appreciate your input. I think I will do a 20* on a 1" blade next and then a 15* as well.
 
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