Second Sheath In Progress!

C

CJ Newton

Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
186
Well, I got to stay home today, so here's what I did:

huj2i1.jpg


I decided to start on my new sheath! So far, I have it formed, and I have a "liner" in it. Unlike the last one, I stained it and put the balm wax on before I put the pieces together. After burnishing with the back end of a Sharpie, it resulted in a smooth liner for the inside, as to not scratch the bolsters. By the way, this sheath is being made for a custom shop 110 I have coming, not the one in the picture. I am taking in-progress photos so I can make a time lapse of the construction. Here are some more pics:

14dndvl.jpg


2je5s80.jpg
 
Last edited:
:thumbup:

Take your time , think each step through before starting it .
You have certainly got the forming process mastered .


Hey Gary
Better start looking over your shoulder , you've got some competition :)


Ken
 
harronek said:
...
Hey Gary
Better start looking over your shoulder , you've got some competition :)

Ken
Click to expand...

Ya think ? :)

I agree, a very nice forming job there, word of caution, the Buck 110's do vary slightly in size, so I usually require the actual knife that the person will be putting into the sheath, now yours may work out just fine, so I'd not worry too much about it.

One other thing I'd not do is dye the area past the formed section, as that could inhibit the contact cement from adhereing properly, usually I don't dye inside the sheath as sometimes the dye can transfer to the handle, but I do put some Gum Tragacanth inside to also help smooth down the fibers, and it also provides some stiffening of the leather too.

Even with your smoothing, you may still get slight abrasions on the brass bolsters, just the nature of the friction type sheaths unfortunately, they are not for the Safe Queen type of knives, so keep that in mind too.

Again, nice job on that forming! and thanks for the warning Ken ;)
G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
Ya think ? :)

I agree, a very nice forming job there,
Click to expand...

Thankyou!

Gary W. Graley said:
Even with your smoothing, you may still get slight abrasions on the brass bolsters, just the nature of the friction type sheaths unfortunately, they are not for the Safe Queen type of knives, so keep that in mind too.
Click to expand...
EDITED:
Well, I plan to use it as an EDC, so I know it is going to get scratched I just wanted to minimalize the abrasions as much as possible.

Also, I decided I'm going to stitch it anyway, even though it doesn't really need it. This is due to the fact that it looks good, (and I don't trust contact cement :))
 
Last edited:
Glue and stitch, two things you should always do.
G2
 
Oh sorry I wasn't inferring that your knife was a Safe Queen just stating that with friction sheaths you can get rub marks.

Also sanding on that side might not help much, as that's the rough side already, I would sand just the finished smooth side when gluing to that
G2
 
Sorry, I didn't intend that post to be interpreted that way, I edited it to clarify.
-CJ
 
Last edited:
Just finished my second sheath! So I decided to make a big last-minute decision. I decided to make it without the flap, unlike the other one. This made it WAY easier and I think it looks better, and it is easier to get the knife out, etc...

Well...

Here's the result!

2ivfjhe.jpg


I was especially surprised with how well the stitching and contours turned out!

16gy1k1.jpg


Special thanks to harronek, Gary W.Graley, leatherman, Strigamort, and everyone else who has replied and shared their ideas! :)
Also thanks to mefedler for his youtube tutorials! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Wow! Whole bunch nicer than the first! Smaller holes and smaller thread and you'll be a rock star on the next one. On the bottom make the space from the edge to the stitching the same as on the side and round the top and bottom of your slots. Really looking good!
 
Mate

( I'm Australian , so that is a term of friendship and respect )

If that really is your second attempt at " bending the Moo " then you have a future in this game :loyal:
I said in a earlier post make sure you always try to improve on your previous efforts , even if its by a fraction it will add up in the end .
Well you achieved and succeeded at that challenge .
You seem to be a " Folder Guy" , long may that last and please don't be tempted by the Dark Side of fixed blades , the world needs more " Folder Guys ":)
I also said in a earlier post we won't " blow wind up your whistle "
My challenge to you for your next sheath is to do some self diagnostic criticism and work on one area or thing you yourself are not happy with .
I'd be interested in knowing what you think you need to improve ?

Ken
 
Real cool cow clad wish I had a skill like that , and that is a skill well done buddy .
 
Nicely done there, the form of the 110 aids greatly in retention so not having the flap won't be missed.

Folks tend to like flaps for a few reasons, keeps things from falling into the sheath, rain, mud, dirt and dust. Also keeps the actual knife from public view which can help at times too.

Looking at your stitching, pretty good by the way, I don't see where you back stitched to lock it down, so I'm guessing there's a knot on the back side? When you get to the end of the stitching line, what I do is before I get there, I'll use an awl to widen the last couple of holes to allow me to go backwards over top of the other stitches, this will lock it down and won't come loose, works great.

And one other thing about this style of sheath, the pancake style, if you know you're going to be in a more rough and tumble situation that day, say climbing or something that can put you at risk, you can thread the belt through the back side of the first loop and OVER top of the knife and then back down through the last loop, so as you tighten your belt, it will provide some pull against the outside of the sheath and cause the knife to be held even firmer.

G2
 
Horsewright said:
Wow! Whole bunch nicer than the first! Smaller holes and smaller thread and you'll be a rock star on the next one. On the bottom make the space from the edge to the stitching the same as on the side and round the top and bottom of your slots. Really looking good!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will have to wait till next time for the different stitching, but as far as the equal spacing and rounded loops go, I can do those right now! Thank you for the advice,
-CJ
 
harronek said:
Mate

( I'm Australian , so that is a term of friendship and respect )

If that really is your second attempt at " bending the Moo " then you have a future in this game :loyal:
Click to expand...

Yes, it is my second attempt, and thank you, very, very much. :)

harronek said:
I said in a earlier post make sure you always try to improve on your previous efforts , even if its by a fraction it will add up in the end .
Well you achieved and succeeded at that challenge .
Click to expand...

Thanks again :)

harronek said:
You seem to be a " Folder Guy" , long may that last and please don't be tempted by the Dark Side of fixed blades , the world needs more " Folder Guys ":)
Click to expand...

I totally agree! :cool:

harronek said:
I also said in a earlier post we won't " blow wind up your whistle "
My challenge to you for your next sheath is to do some self diagnostic criticism and work on one area or thing you yourself are not happy with .
I'd be interested in knowing what you think you need to improve ?

Ken
Click to expand...

I need to work on taking my time, as that is the cause of most problems with this sheath. I also want to plan better, as I just made this one up as I went along. Thank you for taking the time to reply,
-CJ
 
Gary W. Graley said:
Nicely done there, the form of the 110 aids greatly in retention so not having the flap won't be missed.

Folks tend to like flaps for a few reasons, keeps things from falling into the sheath, rain, mud, dirt and dust. Also keeps the actual knife from public view which can help at times too.
Click to expand...

Yes. This one is small enough so that if I wanted to conceal it, I can just pull my T-Shirt over it.

Gary W. Graley said:
Looking at your stitching, pretty good by the way, I don't see where you back stitched to lock it down, so I'm guessing there's a knot on the back side?
Click to expand...

Thanks and yes, there is a knot that I burned and stuck down.

Gary W. Graley said:
When you get to the end of the stitching line, what I do is before I get there, I'll use an awl to widen the last couple of holes to allow me to go backwards over top of the other stitches, this will lock it down and won't come loose, works great.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try it!

Gary W. Graley said:
And one other thing about this style of sheath, the pancake style, if you know you're going to be in a more rough and tumble situation that day, say climbing or something that can put you at risk, you can thread the belt through the back side of the first loop and OVER top of the knife and then back down through the last loop, so as you tighten your belt, it will provide some pull against the outside of the sheath and cause the knife to be held even firmer.

G2
Click to expand...

hmmm, good idea! Thank you for the reply!
-CJ
 
Your holes appear to have been drilled out and might already be large enough to allow back stitching without enlarging the holes, here's what I was saying about back stitching, taken from the tutorial at the top of this section of the forum;

I then punch the holes through the added layer of the belt loop,
which ends up being 4 layers of leather along the bottom of the sheath
I use the awl to enlarge two holes just behind the last hole.
This will be so I can do what is called a back stitch, it locks the thread into the sheath.

62.jpg


Here you can see I reached the end and now will go back two places,
stitching back over the previous stitches, the enlarging of the holes helps get that needled back through the leather

63.jpg


I use a swiss army knife scissors to trim the thread very close to the sheath, I use to use a small knife,
but you can get carried away with that, so I recommend using the scissors!

64.jpg


Then I turn the sheath over and pull the back side thread, which will draw that little stub of thread on the top,
down into the sheath, do this VERY carefully, hmm there’s that word again ;)

65.jpg


this was for a horizontal style sheath but the lock stitching applies on about any style of sheath.

Again, nice work there!
G2
 
Instead of the scissors I use a very fine pointed soldering iron and melt the thread off. Just another way of skinning the same cat. Don't let Ken stray you too far from the truth: fixed blades are what folders want to be when they grow up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top