Secondary Bevel On Scandi

Big Chris

Big Chris

SAHD/Knifemaker
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Apr 1, 2010
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Just recieved a new Wolverine from Kellam Knives, and noticed that it has a micro bevel at the edge of the grind. The first Wolverine I had did not come this way. Whats going on? I want to get rid of it, but not sure what direction to go. Should I work it flat to a zero edge or with leather and sandpaper to form a small convex edge. I have a Mora sharpened using each method and havn't noticed big big differences in cutting performance. Thought some of you fellas may have insight on how the Wolverine would respond best.

Thanks for the help
Chris
 
If you're going to keep them, I'd go the convex route. Grinding them to a zero edge will take a good deal of time and might not be what you want anyway. I've stropped a few of my scandi knives to a small convexed edge and they've been great performers, especially on harder woods (which I have in the area) and they're easy to maintain. I haven't felt the need to get that last drop of performance out of their edges so I'm satisfied.

I hope you are too when you decide which route to go.
 
I agree with PB Wilson. The maker probably did it for a reason (the scandi angle was perhaps a bit shallow, and it could use the extra toughness). In my opinion, seeing how it's already headed in that direction, you'd be better off convexing the micro-bevel. It isn't going to show a drastic drop in cutting aggressiveness. Overall, it'll still have the scandi geometry, and should still bite like a scandi.
 
It depends on how big the bevel is. If you like the way a zero grind cuts, then you have to grind it back down when the micro-bevel gets too big. I suspect that the hardness of the materials you are cutting will have an influence on that as well, as a softer material will let you get away with a larger micro-bevel.

Once a zero grind has a decent secondary bevel, it quits cutting like a scandi. For some things, that's fine... it just depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
 
I'm one of the (few?) guys who deliberately convexes scandis from the get go. you won't lose much, if anything. And you'll gain in some other areas.

What I'd do is leave it be. Sharpen often- very often- as you use it, with a strop. If you can keep up with your use with a strop on a backing - like the JRE strop bat- in short order you will have a convexed scandi to love. Without removing excess metal.

If you DO want a laser straight scandi, invest in an apex sharpener and the extra diamond stones and work it from there.
 
I have the wolverine. I zero ground the bevel, cut like crazy but the edge kept rolling. It now has a micro bevel. The scandi angle is too acute in my opinion to support a zero grind.
 
I like scandi grind knives largely because their ease of sharpening in the field. A scandi grind with a secondary bevel is really just a saber grind, is it not?
 
Thanks for the responses. I was leaning toward the convex and that seems to be the unanimous opinion. My previous one was a true scandi and kept rolling the edge, which I thought was odd for a knife that is supposed to be around 62 rockwell. Now I will see how the convexing holds up.

Thanks
Chris
 
oguruma said:
I like scandi grind knives largely because their ease of sharpening in the field. A scandi grind with a secondary bevel is really just a saber grind, is it not?
Click to expand...

Yup, I would say you are correct.

I would do as Christoff suggests. But if I wanted to buy a scandi, and recieved a knife with a 2ndary bevel, I would probably sell it and buy something else; but that is just me.
 
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It takes a lot of effort for me to get a true scandi sharp. A microbevel is fast and it performs well for me.
 
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