I've noticed that if I simply strop my scandi-ground knives after use, eventually they develop something like a convex secondary bevel. This obviously makes sense and I fully expected it to happen. My only question is this: What are the practical consequences of doing this to my scandi's? Pro's and Cons? One con that I can think of right off the bat is that it will be more difficult to sharpen them on a stone when they need to actually be re-sharpened (due to the new angle created). A pro is that this should make the edge more durable. Any input is appreciated. I'm just a knife guy trying to learn things =] Thanks!
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Secondary convexing a scandi?
- Thread starter PsYCHoT|K
- Start date
What you said is exactly correct. Slight convexing happens with "touch ups" and gives a longer lasting edge, but makes it more difficult (have to remove more steel) when it really needs sharpening. I've collected and made puukko for years, so this is just what I've observed. I sharpen my puukko with my hones to a bevel to edge flat and then draw it back across a strop of 1500 grit emory on a paint paddle once or twice to deliberately give it a very slight secondary bevel.
Rich
Rich
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
- 6,642
+1 both the above.
When I sharpen mine I usually put finger pressure right at the shoulder transition to do most of the grinding, but as it comes close to a true flat I'll shift emphasis to the edge, gives it a just a degree or two at the most convex across the bevel that makes it noticeably more robust for everyday stuff and lateral stress. Takes the apex from 22ish to 25ish.
I normally maintain on a sheet of paper dosed with compound or reclaimed mud from a SiC or waterstone, placed over a stone or one of my Washboards. It doesn't get much more convex using that for maintenance.
Martin
When I sharpen mine I usually put finger pressure right at the shoulder transition to do most of the grinding, but as it comes close to a true flat I'll shift emphasis to the edge, gives it a just a degree or two at the most convex across the bevel that makes it noticeably more robust for everyday stuff and lateral stress. Takes the apex from 22ish to 25ish.
I normally maintain on a sheet of paper dosed with compound or reclaimed mud from a SiC or waterstone, placed over a stone or one of my Washboards. It doesn't get much more convex using that for maintenance.
Martin